[TheForge] Using rail was Treadle Hammer Anvil Stand

[David E. Smucker]

I tend to leave it in a large square or rectangular of say 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 or 
1 x 2.  I have a supply of 7/8 dia round 4340 that I got at scrap prices so 
I use that for smaller items.  I will also leave one or two sections of rail 
head just welded to a handle -- then it can become anything and I don't have 
to stop and weld on a handle and grind off the flame cut when the forge is 
hot and I need some stock.  You can always draw it down, lot more work to 
upset it.

Dave

--------------------------------------------------
From: "robert hensarling" <rhrocker at hilconet.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 12:59 PM
To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Using rail was Treadle Hammer Anvil Stand

> Dave, thanks again.  One last question please;  what do you prefer to draw 
> the billet out to?  Do you make multiple sizes, or do you make something 
> like .75" x .75" stock?
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "David E. Smucker" <davesmucker at hotmail.com>
> To: "Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 8:49 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Using rail was Treadle Hammer Anvil Stand
>
>
>>I usually cut a section from 6 to 8 inches in length.  Sometimes a little 
>>longer.  6 to 8 inches is easy to get up to forging temperature for the 
>>whole length.  I will also clamp a pair of vise grips to the handle a few 
>>inches back from the section of rail head.  This makes holding and working 
>>under the power hammer safer and easier to handle.  You put the vise grips 
>>on, or use a pair of tongs, just as you come out of the fire.  This way 
>>you can have one hand close to the work, without cooling the handle.  I 
>>also wear a heavy Kevlar glove when working this way.  That big hunk of 
>>metal gives off a lot of heat.
>>
>> Dave
>
>
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