[TheForge] Drawer pulls
ries
ries at riesniemi.com
Thu Feb 14 11:16:24 EST 2008
This would work- but me, I would use metal.
I cant imagine why.
I would take two blocks of steel, maybe 1" x 2" x 2", and make a
spring swage handle for them, weld it together, then heat em up in the
forge. When hot, put it in the power hammer with a spike.
Hit it hard.
Then, you put the spring swage in the vise. It holds a spike as if it
was made for it.
Of course, you might have to grind a bit on the blocks to get exact
orientation in the vise, but once that was done, it would work every
time.
I always drill holes like this in my milling machine- it is so much
more ridgid than a drill press, the vise alone weighs about what a
cheapo harbor freight drill press does.
The holes come out straighter, I break fewer bits, and its quicker.
ries
On Feb 14, 2008, at 7:39 AM, Grant Marcoux wrote:
Ron: to hold this RR spike head, why not make a conforming mould from
"Quick Crete" or other fast setting concrete product? To do this,
make a
ball of the material, press the head into it and allow to dry hard; just
make sure the base of the mould is kept flat enough to epoxy to a
piece of
wood. then you have a conforming rigid mould that can be glued to a
small
square of plywood which can then be held on the drill press with a DP
clamp.
Grant
-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Ron Childers
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 4:58 AM
To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Drawer pulls
Mike,
A gentleman is building a log house and wants all the hardware made of
railroad spikes. My idea for the drawer pulls and cabinet knobs is to
cut
about 1" from the head then drill and tap for 1/4" screws.
That part of the job is tedious and not very vain glorious, but we
will have
to adapt a drill press vice to hold the head so the shank is perfectly
straight and exactly centered. If it was only six or eight, I would
consider fullering and squaring with a monkey tool, then tapping for a
1/4"
nut.
The door handles and knockers are a more interesting and creative part
of
this undertaking, but the fastening aspect is similar.
If there is a better way, I'm open to suggestions.
Ron C
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Ries Niemi
Industrial Artist
http://www.riesniemi.com/
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