[TheForge] Re: Flux

robert hensarling rhrocker at hilconet.com
Tue Apr 15 13:14:47 EDT 2008


I have a DVD that Roger sold me showing a English guy demonstrating here in 
the States.  He did several forge welds using no flux at all.  He was very, 
very fast from the forge, to the tap, tap, tap, hammer, hammer.  I was 
impressed and ran to the shop to try it.  Need I say more?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Robinson" <robi5515 at bellsouth.net>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Flux


> The old formula for E Z Weld included the addition of a byproduct scale 
> from a no longer used steel making process.
> E Z Weld used to buy the scale by the boxcar load. When their source dried 
> up the company went belly up.
> Haven't used the new version, but have heard  it's not even close to the 
> original.
> I make my SUPERFLUX from, in order of degreasing quantity: anhydrous 
> borax, Boric acid. black iron oxide and fluorspar.
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Paul" <crosspein at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 7:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: New Discoveries: Ersatz EZ Weld
>
>
>> I've been using a mixture of Boric Acid and Red Iron Oxide (equal parts 
>> by weight) for several months with good results.
>>
>> Bob Becker mentioned it last summer in his demo at UMBRC.
>>
>> My opinions on it (prior experience with straight borax and anhydrous 
>> borax):
>>    My welds came out fine
>>    It doesn't stick as well to the red iron as anhydrous borax.
>>    But it does clean up after the weld a lot better than borax.
>>    It doesn't leech back out later (or if it does, it's a LOT less 
>> visible)
>>
>> Granted my welding experience is "modest", but I try to weld something 
>> every time I light up the forge.  (1-2 times/week, a little less over 
>> winter)
>>
>> I've seen mixtures that add either regular borax to the mix, as well as 
>> flourospar , but I haven't tried any of these.
>>
>> I have sometimes noticed some sparking "a little early". I'm wondering if 
>> the iron filings and oxide serve as a bit of an "alert" to tell you it's 
>> hot enough? I usually just dampen the airflow at that point to let it 
>> soak in a reducing fire while maintaining welding heat. (Oh, coal forge 
>> here)
>>
>> **paul
>>
>> Peter Hirst wrote:
>>> Its the iron oxide part I dont understand.  As I appreciate it, flux has 
>>> two purposes.  To shield the joint from oxygen so that no oxide on the 
>>> sufaces can interfere with metal bonding, and also to actually dissolve 
>>> any oxides or other impurities that are there and float them away from 
>>> the weld. Adding oxide to the flux would seem to defeat one or both.
>>>
>>> ANyway, EZ Weld does contain about 15 percent boric acid, so I guess 
>>> I'll ad about that proportion of  COnmat to the mix and let the mineral 
>>> content of the 20 Mule Team stand in for the "slag" component.  so my 30 
>>> bucks worth costs me about 1.50.  Still not bad.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David E. Smucker" 
>>> <davesmucker at hotmail.com>
>>> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 8:05 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: New Discoveries: Ersatz EZ Weld
>>>
>>>
>>>> Some smiths around here use a flux that is a mixture of boric acid 
>>>> (roach kill) and iron oxide.  They get the iron oxide from the pottery 
>>>> suppliers. I don't understand the chemistry of what is happening at the 
>>>> melt temperatures.  This flux seems to work very well for them.
>>>>
>>>> Da
>>>>
>>>
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>
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