[TheForge] slit & drift question

[Bruce Freeman]

How about a more complex shape:  Sort of a slitter with lobes, like teardrops, at each end.  It would punch the two ends and slit the middle.  Should open up more nicely than a slitter alone.
A simpler, more flexible tool would be a tear-drop shaped slitter.  Same idea as above, but with a teardrop shape on one edge only.  Would be easier to make and maintain, and would provide for a different slit widths.
Bruce
NJ

>>> <wmullett at bright.net> 9/21/2007 1:35 PM >>>
The problem I have with split and drift is that for squared pickets (not diamond) it is really hard, if not nearly impossible, to work the v at the ends of the slit to a squared opening.  But then this v is really an honest expression of the process.

Most times when I do something similar in smaller stock, I punch then drift square.  This results in more swelling along the sides but I don't mind that.  I wonder if a oval type punch might help with this problem?
 

From: "Dave Mudge" <dave at magichammer.net>
Date: Thu Sep 20, 10:23 PM
To: "theforge mailist" <TheForge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [TheForge] slit & drift question

Dear TheForge,
I have a couple questions that I think some of you my have answers for.
I have a job coming up where I will have to pass 1/2" square pickets
through 3/4" x 1-1/2" flat bar.
I want to use the split & drift method.
1. How long does the split have to be to be in order to drift it out
to 1/2" square? even through 3/4" flat bar?
2. What is the best material that may be commonly found in a machine
shop to make the splitting chisel from?

thanks in advance,
dave mudge
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