[TheForge] Making a drag bar

Jerry Frost akfrosty at mtaonline.net
Thu Jul 12 01:43:19 EDT 2007


No problem forging 5160 Jerry, just don't overheat it, 
high orange is about it and don't work it below red. 
Once done anneal it and you'll be able to do any 
drilling, cutting, filing, etc. you need. It'll show up 
any warpage too so you can do any necessary 
straightening. Heat treat by bringing to critical and 
quenching in warm 110-120f oil. Temper to near spring 
blue.

A progressive temper works well on 5160 but the colors 
run close and fast so you have to be on your toes.

Frosty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.

http://www.artmetalradio.com/


From: "Jerry Smith" 
<jerry_smith at anvilsandinkstudios.com>


>I bought a 8 Hp Monkee Wards Rotor tiller, but it
> didn't have the drag bar. The area for the drag bar 
> is
> 4 1/2 by 4 1/2 inches and has a 5/8 bolt thru the
> area. This space is about 4 inches deep.
>
> I was thinking of using some channel steel that I 
> have
> for the cross member and use an old truck spring for
> the actual drag bar. I want to forge the truck
> spring/drag bar into the right shape.
>
> Any one have any advice or ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry
> 


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