[TheForge] Fixing my forge

[Jerry Frost]

Mark:

What type burner are you using? Is it a linear inducer 
like a Reil EZ burner, Aussie, etc. or is it a Jet 
ejector type like a Porter, Rex or Side Arm? There is 
quite a bit of efficiency difference between the types.

Drilling and tapping through the side (I assume) of 
small dia galvy pipe doesn't give you enough depth of 
threads for a mig tip to grab properly.

A leak where the mig tip threads into the gas line 
won't introduce excess air into the burner. The gas is 
under pressure so air can't enter through a leak. More 
likely what is happening is excess gas is entering and 
throwing the ratio off on the rich side.

Lastly it's a bad idea to use galvy pipe in contact 
with propane. You can get away with it for the burner 
tube if you don't mind the zinc smoke but having galvy 
in the gas supply will lead to leaks. Propane and zinc 
react to the detriment of the pipe and will corrode it 
pretty quickly.

So, let us know a bit more abot your burners, pictures 
really help and we'll get you up and running.

Frosty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.

http://www.artmetalradio.com/

From: "Mark Novak" <mark at fireworkspdx.com>


>I presently have a gas forge that I built in a class 
>at The Crucible  in Oakland, CA. It employs two 
>overhead burners. The gas comes into  each burner via 
>a round galvanized pipe with a threaded hole into 
>which a mig tip is screwed. I'm getting a bit of air 
>in the mix  thanks to the mig tip not seating well 
>into the round pipe, which is  bringing the 
>temperature of my forge down. Right now I'm using gas- 
>grade "plumbers" tape in the threads (it's what we 
>used in the  class), but I'm hoping someone here has a 
>suggestion of another  material that could hold up to 
>the radiant heat of the forge and seal  the mig tips 
>better, whether it's another tape or a foam-based 
>product.
> Thanks,
> Mark