[TheForge] now for something completely different
Jerry Frost
frosty at customcpu.com
Thu Apr 26 13:33:04 EDT 2007
Terry:
I've seen a number of chainsaw mill set ups and haven't
been terribly impressed. They're pretty slow and
regardless of the guide if the chain isn't sharpened
nearly perfectly you get crooked cuts.
The chains that work the best not only have an
aggressive tooth but have every other tooth removed.
This makes them very susceptible to jamming and kicking
back.
On the other hand I've known a lot of people who've
milled a house (usually small) worth of lumber with
one. It's largly the old: time vs. money thing. What
most of them discovered after a while that once they
got sharpening evenly down pat they didn't need the
mill. They'd snap a line and hand guide the saw.
Oregon and Alaska mills are or were pretty much
identical last time I looked and there are a lot of
others. Google should provide plenty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks
Meadow Lakes, AK.
http://www.artmetalradio.com/
From: "terry l. ridder" <terrylr at blauedonau.com>
> hello;
>
> last fall the township cut down all the trees in the
> hedgerow/fenceline
> on the country road i live on. i asked for the wood
> from from the huge
> maple tree that was right across from our house. well
> the township gave
> me all the wood. i have close to 125 logs sitting on
> the west end of
> the property. most are 10 ft long and relatively
> straight.
>
> my original plan was to cut up the smaller logs for
> firewood and
> the larger logs for lumber or square them off for
> landscape timber
> use.
>
> would anyone know of a simple way to make a
> reasonably safe device
> to guide a chainsaw in squaring the smaller logs?
>
> the logs and wood from the huge maple tree i would
> like to take to the kingston saw mill for sawing.
> that will have to wait for now.
>
>
> --
> terry l. ridder ><>
>
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