[TheForge] Yellin question

[Chris Worsley]

The round top piece seems to be held tight at the corners by being 
pinched onto the posts. Looking at the photo in the book, which is a 
little sharper, it is also possible that countersunk rivets are put in 
from beneath and hold in the top countersink, filed to match contour of 
top piece. I am not able to tell if there is a flat piece beneath that 
top twisted piece though. It's hard to tell if that twisted piece is 
centered on top, or on the outside face of the side panels.

This was  common Yellin shop joinery. Look at the knight repousse on 
page 58 and you can see the rivets that came in from the back and were 
finished off this way, smooth on front.

When using a twisted element, I sometimes grind, then file the back flat 
and  fasten with plug welds, file smooth and reheat to match color if 
this riveting method is not possible. Plug welds are invisible, the 
countersunk rivet is not, and the outline becomes a faint part of the 
design if you like.

After studying the photo for a while, if you can't figure out how 
Yellin's boys did it, figure out how you will do it. There is always 
more than one way. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
Oh yes, get yourself a lab coat!

Chris
AZ

Steve Smith wrote:

> I would like to make use of something very like the sides of this 
> letter box:
> http://users.frii.com/sos/Steve/yellin.jpg
> which is on page 44 of Samuel Yellin, Metalworker by Jack Andrews.
>
> I want to do something very similar; piercing thin sheet (as the sides 
> are), topped with a piece of molding. What I can't figure out is how 
> it is made.
>
> The edge molding in the Yellin piece makes matters even worse in my 
> mind. The molding appears to be a twisted strip. How in the world do 
> you attach something like that to the side?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
>