[TheForge] Re: WAAAAAAAAY OT (while we're talkingaboutbuildingsand heat)

[Grover Richardson]

Excellent!!!!  I had forgotten that, and the recent flurry of emails.  Many
thanks!!  Any comments on a gas forge?

>*>-----Original Message-----
>*>From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net 
>*>[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Frost
>*>Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 12:35 PM
>*>To: Sponsored by ABANA
>*>Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: WAAAAAAAAY OT (while we're 
>*>talkingaboutbuildingsand heat)
>*>
>*>
>*>Using a heat exchanger on a coal, oil, wood, etc. burning 
>*>appliance is an 
>*>invitation to creosote build up and a chimney fire.
>*>
>*>Recent experience says this is BAD. <grin> We just spent 
>*>around $2,500 
>*>replacing the wood burner (wife's unchallenged insistance) 
>*>and various stack 
>*>components. Fortunately I didn't have to open a wall to work 
>*>on the stack, 
>*>high end triple wall insulated SS stove pipe is worth the  
>*>$100/ft pricetag.
>*>
>*>Frosty
>*>-------------------------------
>*>If it ain't forged
>*>it ain't real.
>*>Wrought iron is.
>*>The FrostWorks
>*>
>*>Meadow Lakes, AK.
>*>
>*>http://www.artmetalradio.com/
>*>
>*>
>*>From: "Grover Richardson" <grover.richardson at gtri.gatech.edu>
>*>
>*>
>*>
>*>Hmm.  Remember those heat pipes for zero spacing fireplaces? 
>*> They are multiple flues inside each other.
>*>
>*>Install an outer flue outside of the forge flue.  Place a 
>*>blower to blow the air between the inner and outer flue into 
>*>the shop as free heat normally lost outside.
>*>
>*>NOTE:  I would put in a co monitor though.  You will never 
>*>know if the inner flue leaks, well, not on this plane of 
>*>existence anyway<G>.
>*>
>*>As an on/off mechanism, Sears (or Newark Electronics) makes 
>*>the click type thermostats for electric dryers.  I have used 
>*>them for cooling control in chassises.  They are inexpensive 
>*>and rough in temperature control, but will control a blower 
>*>motor easily.  Or you could augment a standard house 
>*>temperature controller to control the blower for more 
>*>exacting control.
>*>
>*>Question to the masses?  Would removing heat in this manner 
>*>mess up the draw of the main forge flue enough to cause 
>*>problems?  I suspect that the shop would get warm fast and 
>*>someone would turn off the blower.
>*>
>*>
>*>
>*>
>*>
>*>>*>-----Original Message-----
>*>>*>From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net 
>*>>*>[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of GHS
>*>>*>Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 11:11 AM
>*>>*>To: Sponsored by ABANA
>*>>*>Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: WAAAAAAAAY OT (while we're *>talking 
>*>>about buildingsand heat) *>
>*>>*>
>*>>*>Justin , insulated floors on slab in a shop?
>*>>*>
>*>>*>Do it.
>*>>*>
>*>>*>Especially make sure that the perimeter of the building is
>*>>*>insulated as
>*>>*>that is where most of the heat loss will be. After a nice thick
>*>>*>insulation (vertically) below the frost line at the edge and
>*>>*>maybe four
>*>>*>feet in (horizontally), a well drained gravel bed is almost
>*>>*>as good as
>*>>*>continuing the insulation. The largish gravel isolated from
>*>>*>the cold by
>*>>*>the perimeter insulation will stay relatively warm and not
>*>>*>transfer heat
>*>>*>real well.
>*>>*>
>*>>*>With the possibility of floor mounting new equipment and
>*>>*>vibration from
>*>>*>same, I would not be as enthusiastic about in floor heating,
>*>>*>even though
>*>>*>it is comfortable..
>*>>*>
>*>>*>If you are heating with wood and feel comfortable 
>*>designing a system
>*>>*>like the Romans used (hypocaust??) it might be fun but expensive.
>*>>*>
>*>>*>Depending on layout, you might want to think about radiant
>*>>*>heat at the
>*>>*>ceiling, over key areas.
>*>>*>
>*>>*>Mike Graf
>*>>*>
>*>>*>
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