[TheForge] Welding Rod

[Ralph Sproul]

	Rick, I had a welder like that once........  Threw it out.

	On the next welder you get - buy one with DC capability.  You'll find
welding to be a new experience.

When you asking about 7018 vs 7014    and   6011 vs 6013    Your talking
about rods that penetrate as compared to those which build up.  The
penetrating rods take more power as they are melting the rod AND the base
metal - where the overlay/buildup rods are melting the rod to the melted
surface of the material - it takes about 10-20% more power to run the
penetrating as copared to the build up rods - this is why your having
difficulties or experiencing welder handle movement.

This welder handle not staying placed is usually from welding more than 2
minutes out of 10 like the welder's 20% or so duty cycle would have
prefered.

Ralph

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:16 PM
To: munlaw2 at hcsmail.com; Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Welding Rod


Oh boy, am I a goof some days.  I sent this off before going to work this
morning, and now I see I didn't really ask the question I wanted to.  "What
is the real difference between 7014 and 7018?"  I have trouble with my
little AC buzz box running small rod. It doesn't stay on one setting well
any more and since it is about as old as I am (or at least 50, which is
close enough) I can't fault it  too much.  I put a bungee cord around it to
sort of hold the adjustment still.  I have lots of trouble getting the stick
to start when I am running 6011 or 6013.  With the 7014 I had, I had no
trouble at all.  It just ran  and did a great job.  Is it just me or is that
just the way that rod is?

Thanks,
Rick Crawford at Rafter Lazy C
  Home of Smoky Forge and Lem the Wonder Mule
   In the middle of Northern Illinois

    http://www.smokyforge.com
     rick at smokyforge.com



----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Childers" <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>
To: <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>; "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:26 AM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding Rod


Rick,

Check the end of the rod that goes in the electrode holder and clean off the
rust- 6010 (5P) or 6011 should work when wet- you may have to run a bit
hotter... 6010 is for DC reverse polarity. They will work on AC if run at
more heat than used with 6011.

Ron Childers

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron Childers
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:40 AM
To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding Rod

E6011= 60k psi ts AC or DC + or - all position, general purpose - Works on
dirty or rusted metal. E7014= 70K psi ts AC or DC + or- all position- used
for lap & fillet welds- likes a clean surface. Google Lincoln consumables.
You can get a brochure listing the rods and general information about each.

Ron Childers

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 7:52 AM
To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [TheForge] Welding Rod

Hi folks -

    I am in the midst of a dilemma.  I used to weld every day, and got
pretty good at it, but never learned about picking out which rod to use.  (I

was primarily a layout man and only welded to fill in.)  I have heard 7018
touted as a good all around rod.  I had some 7014 rod here that was probably

10-12 years old and never in a rod cabinet, since I don't have one.  It also

gets quite humid here in the summer.  That 7014 rod worked great the other
day when I used it.  The 6011 or 6013 I had wouldn't work near as well.

    Can someone tell me what the letters mean?  I know the first tells
tensile strength, but what do the others mean?


Thanks,

Rick Crawford at Rafter Lazy C
  Home of Smoky Forge and Lem the Wonder Mule
   In the middle of Northern Illinois

    http://www.smokyforge.com
     rick at smokyforge.com




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