[TheForge] Welding Rod- 6013?

[Gladish Family]

What I found is that I usually try to run 6011 too cold. Try boosting 
the amps if you have trouble starting an arc, and try clamping your 
ground on clean metal close to the weld, rather than on the table if 
that's what you're doing.
7014 is very sweet to use but it doesn't penetrate particularly well, so 
watch that.
Now, I hear 6013 called "hobby rod". Does that mean it doesn't work? 
Seems like a good compromise for those of us who don't work on big 
enough projects to need full boxes of 7018. I know of some fine old 
battered trailers that were built with 6013 and just go and go forever.

Andy G.

>
>> Oh boy, am I a goof some days.  I sent this off before going to work 
>> this morning, and now I see I didn't really ask the question I wanted 
>> to. "What is the real difference between 7014 and 7018?"  I have 
>> trouble with my little AC buzz box running small rod. It doesn't stay 
>> on one setting well any more and since it is about as old as I am (or 
>> at least 50, which is close enough) I can't fault it  too much.  I 
>> put a bungee cord around it to sort of hold the adjustment still.  I 
>> have lots of trouble getting the stick to start when I am running 
>> 6011 or 6013.  With the 7014 I had, I had no trouble at all.  It just 
>> ran  and did a great job.  Is it just me or is that just the way that 
>> rod is?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Rick Crawford at Rafter Lazy C
>>  Home of Smoky Forge and Lem the Wonder Mule
>>   In the middle of Northern Illinois
>>
>>    http://www.smokyforge.com
>>     rick at smokyforge.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Childers" <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>
>> To: <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>; "'Sponsored by ABANA'" 
>> <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:26 AM
>> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding Rod
>>
>>
>> Rick,
>>
>> Check the end of the rod that goes in the electrode holder and clean 
>> off the
>> rust- 6010 (5P) or 6011 should work when wet- you may have to run a bit
>> hotter... 6010 is for DC reverse polarity. They will work on AC if 
>> run at
>> more heat than used with 6011.
>>
>> Ron Childers
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron Childers
>> Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:40 AM
>> To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
>> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding Rod
>>
>> E6011= 60k psi ts AC or DC + or - all position, general purpose - 
>> Works on
>> dirty or rusted metal. E7014= 70K psi ts AC or DC + or- all position- 
>> used
>> for lap & fillet welds- likes a clean surface. Google Lincoln 
>> consumables.
>> You can get a brochure listing the rods and general information about 
>> each.
>>
>> Ron Childers
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick
>> Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 7:52 AM
>> To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [TheForge] Welding Rod
>>
>> Hi folks -
>>
>>    I am in the midst of a dilemma.  I used to weld every day, and got
>> pretty good at it, but never learned about picking out which rod to 
>> use. (I
>>
>> was primarily a layout man and only welded to fill in.)  I have heard 
>> 7018
>> touted as a good all around rod.  I had some 7014 rod here that was 
>> probably
>>
>> 10-12 years old and never in a rod cabinet, since I don't have one.  
>> It also
>>
>> gets quite humid here in the summer.  That 7014 rod worked great the 
>> other
>> day when I used it.  The 6011 or 6013 I had wouldn't work near as well.
>>
>>    Can someone tell me what the letters mean?  I know the first tells
>> tensile strength, but what do the others mean?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Rick Crawford at Rafter Lazy C
>>  Home of Smoky Forge and Lem the Wonder Mule
>>   In the middle of Northern Illinois
>>
>>    http://www.smokyforge.com
>>     rick at smokyforge.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>>
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