[TheForge] Forge Lining
Michael
michael.a.porter at comcast.net
Sun Jul 23 15:05:47 EDT 2006
Jay,
You sent me a list of your oval forges available a little more than a year
back, but you didn't send photos. There was no mention of clamshell forges
at the time.
Mikey
By the way folks, I like Jays extra flexible propane hose much better than
the stiff kind you will pay the same prices for at a hardware store.
-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jay Hayes
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 6:33 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Forge Lining
Hey Mikey,
I thought I sent you some information about the Clamshell and Super Wide
Oval Forges a while back. We have been making them for several years.
I'll have to send you some pictures.
We make both types in three standard sizes as well as custom sizes. The
standard kits are: a Single Burner 16W x 12H x 12L, a Two Burner 16W x
12H x 18L, and a Three Burner 16W x 12H x 24L Both the Clamshell and
Oval formats are more practical and efficient than a similar sized
cylindrical forge.
The Clamshell Forges have a full width flat floor that is insulated with
three inches of Ceramic Fiber and Super Duty Floor Bricks. The upper
section of the Clamshell Forge, also insulated with three inches of
ceramic fiber, can either hinge from one side or completely lift off the
floor section.
This versatility allows huge parts to have sections heated that would
not normally be able to fit into other gas forges. It is great for
things like large scrolls, assembled sections, and armor. When the
Clamshell is closed, work can be loaded from the front or rear of the
forge. Long parts can run completely through the forge. Our CNC plasma
cut end plates have a small port in the door to allow necessary exhaust
gases to escape while maintaining maximum heat retention. The doors can
be configured a number of ways to suit the builder and the type of work.
All of the forge kits feature our 3/4 inch high output, High Performance
Burners and a Fuel Saver Valve Manifold. These burners are equipped with
a specifically designed gas orifice, a machined nozzle, and integral
choke plate. A wide range of adjustment allows the burners to be easily
tuned to run stable from less than one psi to well over 25 psi. Each
burner of our multi burner forge kits has its own shutoff valve, so gas
is supplied only to the burners needed for the job. The valve manifold
also has a low pressure Fuel Saver idle circuit that cuts all the
burners back to a low fire when the work is moved to the anvil.
The net result is a very versatile industrial quality forge that heats
up fast, is easy to use, and gets the maximum use out of a tank of gas.
Jay
Mike Porter wrote:
>Hi Jay,
>This is the first I've heard about your clamshell forges. You need to write
>more on the group.
>Mikey
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jay Hayes
>Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 3:56 PM
>To: Sponsored by ABANA
>Subject: Re: [TheForge] Forge Lining
>
>Luke,
>
>I also carry regulators and everything else needed to build gas forges.
>I also have a number of forge kits including several clamshell forge kits.
>
>As others mentioned check the temperature ratings of the ceramic fiber
>and other refractory. You can use lower temp material behind higher temp
>refractory, but low temp stuff will not hold by itself up to the high
>heat of a forge. I prefer three inches of ceramic fiber for better fuel
>economy, although a lot of folks only use two inches.
>
>Jay Hayes
>jay at hrea.coop
>
>
>Luke Thomson wrote:
>
>
>
>>My friend's uncle is a refractory man, i don't know exactly what his
>>position is but he's some sort of contractor for refractory and fire
>>insulating work. That's insignificant though, the cool part is I get free
>>refractories!!!
>>
>>Here's What I Got:
>>1. 1" thick Kao-wool, durablanket or some brand of refractory blanket
>>2. ***Naphos-85 i have a couple gallons and with it Matt (refractory
>>hook-up) said "holds brick together up to .25" thick" and "add water
>>to get
>>consistency of morter/slurry"
>>3. ***Ply Brico "trawelable* plastic .5" to 3" thick" and "fills cracks &
>>voids etc. where there isn't a brick" *Real Sticky*
>>4. bag of AP Green Castable refractory
>> ***He also said that both the 'ply brico' and
>>'naphos' are 85% alumina where the standard is 50%
>>
>>Here is what I want:
>>A forge... I cut the ends of a propane tank and burned the paint off
>>for a
>>forge shell. I'm not neccessarily set on this but it seems like the right
>>size for my second forge, ( just today another friends dad gave me
>>their old
>>forge to use while I build my own). The hope is that with those
>>refractories
>>and one of mike porter's burners I'll have a forge pretty soon. I've
>>already
>>forked out the big bucks and bought most of the parts for the .5 & .75"
>>burner's in his book.
>>
>>now for the actual questions:
>>1. I've read about Jerry using a couple layers of Kaowool protected by
>>refractory cement and rather liked the idea, but would like to hear
>>other suggestions considering the materials I have.
>>
>>2. If I decide to go with the two layers of kao-wool how thick should
>>I lay
>>on the refrectory cement and which one should I use? should i do like
>>.75"
>>on the top and sides and 1.5 or so inches on the bottom?
>>
>>3. Is there a website or anywhere in particular where I should buy a
>>regulator, or will most places pretty much be the same: central welding
>>supply, hardware store, etc.
>>
>>Any other suggestions?
>>
>>Thanks always for your advice,
>>Luke
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>
>
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