[TheForge] Glass question

[Mike Porter]

Steve,
OK, this is about as fair as a monkey wrench tossed into a racing engine
but...
Consider your lady sitting on the sofa and looking through the glass into
the scrollwork you may have planned. Note please that she, and all others,
are gazing--not directly down on the marvelous scroll panel you may have in
mind, but--into its subterranean (glassian?) depths at an angle. I, who love
scrollwork, must still caution against two dimensional scrolls of whatever
kind under these circumstances. Instead, any view below the glass should be
dramatically three dimensional, in simple, sweeping lines; otherwise the
work and expense will cost more than your satisfaction can repay. Sitting or
standing, close or far, the view will always be at an angle.

An even sadder fact is that geometrical designs will always trump
scroll-work when you are dealing with three dimensions. I did scrollwork for
fifteen years, including table bases, and though I love scrolls, they are
not the best choice in every situation. What a bad taste that admission
leaves in my mouth :-( Nevertheless, it would be a shame to go to a lot of
expense and trouble to create the design equivalent of flat beer. If you
should be trapped by extreme circumstances, such as a house full of Spanish
furniture, and scrolls are your only option, than I would recommend a few
simple heavy scrolls as ends, tied together with twisted work running
longitudinally beneath an opaque table top (wood, tile, marble--anything but
glass).
Mikey

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve Smith
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 6:16 AM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Glass question

Dave, thanks. What draws me to the glass table is the idea of filling 
the space underneath with scrollwork. I'll talk with the client (milady 
wife) about colors, but I'm thinking 5/8" will be enough--I don't think 
I can induce her to dance on it.

Steve

dave mudge wrote:

> Steve, To state the obvious, remember that you (and the client) can see
> through the glass top table.
> The work has to look good from all directions. Your local glass company
will
> have some standard sizes
> And will be able to order any size and shape that you want. I strongly
> recommend using thick glass.
> 5/8" to 3/4" makes the piece look and feel strong. You can stand up on
3/4"
> glass and do a dance, it won't break
> unless you drop it on it's edge. Have a "pencil edge" put on the glass.
The
> standard glass will have a green tint to it
> unless you order "Clear" specifically, so keep that in mind when you do
your
> color scheme.
> You should get a price quote from your local company then do a Google
search
> for "Dependable Glass in Covington Louisiana" they are one of the major
> suppliers of custom cut glass to the country.
> At least give them a call and get a quote + shipping of course.  Use clear
> plastic tabs between the glass and the iron.
> dave m
> 
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Steve Smith
> Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2006 6:01 PM
> To: theforge
> Subject: [TheForge] Glass question
> 
> I'm starting to draw up a glass topped table, which I've never made
> before (any tips will be very helpful).
> 
> What I'm wondering is if glass tops come in standard sizes, or if they
> will cut to size as needed. If the tops are standard sizes, then I have
> to talk to a glass shop right away before get started. It seems like it
> shouldn't be expensive to get a piece custom sized, but what do I know
> about it?
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 
> 
> 
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