[TheForge] reclaiming copper

[Bruce Freeman]

Yeah, but what IS it?  Some mix of acids, I'd guess, as carbonate
precipitation is the usual problem.  But you could do as well just
buying the acids as such.

Recap:
Sulfuric acid (very dangerous) is available for car batteries.  Avoid
using the stuff FROM car batteries, as it is full of toxic lead.
Sodium bisulfate (MUCH less dangerous) is available at pool supply
stores to lower water pH.  It's white crystals, easy to store and use.
Phosphoric acid (moderately dangerous, and which allegedly leaves a
protective layer on steel) is available at tile supply places (& Home
Depot) for etching masonry before applying new mortar or tile.
Muriatic acid (= hydrocloric acid; moderately dangerous; very dangerous
to inhale vapors) is available in all hardware and paint stores.

Now if anyone knows a retail source for lye (sodium hydroxide), please
let me know.  Red Devil apparently stopped selling the stuff.  For
general purposes, Crystal Draino will work, but not for soap-making.

Bruce
NJ

>>> olayers at sover.net 6/30/2006 7:45:30 PM >>>
At work we use a concentrated toilet bowl cleaner (no kidding!) to take
the
oxidation off brass, copper and bronze.

 
Chris Caswell
Caswell Wood & Iron
Burlington, VT
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Bob Ehrenberger
Date: 06/30/06 14:39:47
To: theforge
Subject: RE: [TheForge] reclaiming copper
 
> If you are just burning off the insulation use a weed burner.
>
 
>as ralph pointed out there is a big difference between 'bright' and
'>burnt' prices that the scrap dealer pays.
 
It might be posible to "bright dip" the copper after burning it to get
back
it's top dollar value.
 
Robert Ehrenberger
Shelbyville, Mo.
eforge at centurytel.net 
 
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