[TheForge] Murphy strikes again. But fails!

[Jerry Frost]

Right you are Darrell.

Unfortunately this is one of those situations where code says you MUST use 
something inferior. I haven't checked recently, will this weekend, but there 
isn't or wasn't insulated adjustable elbows and the telescoping pipe is air 
gap double wall.

If insurance wouldn't kill us I'd build a stove. I've built a number and 
even without "knowing" what I was doing made a couple that were super 
efficient and safe. Part of the problem with this one is it has "stuff" 
sticking out the back so it won't go close enough to the wall to make up 
directly with the stove pipe.

As I'd designed things I could simply adjust the triple wall and make it up 
directly with the stove but with this one I have to jog it out about 4".

A last modification I've been going to make is add insulation to the top of 
the pipe. Another bit of code says it must stick 3' out of the roof. To make 
it work properly it needs to extend at least 3' above the highest point to 
avoid turbulence. Ours comes out through a cupola so back drafting isn't a 
problem. It's the extension of plain pipe that does the mischief.

What I'm going to do is mount a piece of 12" SS stove pipe over it and 
insulate around it with perlite, Kaowool, etc. and seal it up so rain can't 
get into the insulation. This will slow creosote buildup at the top.

Frosty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.

http://www.artmetalradio.com/

From: "Darrell" <darrell67 at machinemaster.com>



> If ALL of the stove pipe is insulated it won't creosote up near as much as
> one that has cool air on thin metal causing the creosote to condense.
>
> Darrell
>