[TheForge] Needful things...

Mon Dec 18 13:09:46 EST 2006

Phillip, as scrap you may have more luck in finding it in the round and then 
squaring up.  Hydraulic cylinder rods are a possible scrap source.  Another 
is local machine shop drops -- it is scrap to them, so you can call it scrap 
too.  They will know what steel it is.  I would look for 1045 or 4140. 
Cheap cylinder rods will be 1045, top of the line will be 4140.  Some truck 
axles might be big enough and will most likely be 4140.  With a striker or 
two you can hand forge round into the size you want.  Before starting, weld 
on a mild steel handle then it is easy to handle while hot.  This is what I 
do when making hammer heads.

Remember you could punch the hole too.

Heat treat that Ron has is a good one.  Just remember to heat it slowly and 
keep in your forge till it heats through but don't overheat the outside, you 
are heat treating it not forgoing it at this point.   Like all heat treating 
cracks are possible so temper right away.  Best way to temper this size is 
in a kitchen (or toaster) oven at 400 F for 2 hours.

Dave Smucker

 ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Childers" <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>
To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 10:48 AM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Needful things...

Phillip,

Imho, heat in a gas forge until all shadows disappear and it is the same all
the way through @ non magnetic. Then dump in vermiculite- It will stay hot
for 2 days and should be annealed by then. Medium carbon is something like
1040 or 4140 and is pretty forgiving on heat treating. It should drill with
any decent bit.

In our tire hammer workshop we heated 4140 to non magnetic and normalized to
weld on the flanges to make our power hammer dies. We then heated to non
magnetic and quenched in oil. We drew the temper @ 400 degrees F.

I think I remembered that correctly. Steve, you were there with me; anything
you care to add?

Ron Childers

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Linn
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 9:58 AM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Needful things...

At 11:15 PM 12/17/2006, you wrote:
>I need a few items, and some information, and if it's smithing, I
>kinda think I know who to ask, so guys, help me out please ;-)
>
>I need a piece of square or rectangular bar stock, maybe 2-3 inches
>long. It should be about medium carbon, the dimensions can be 2" X 3"
>in any direction, as long as it's no more or no less than 2-3 inches,
>and it must be square or rectangular. Also, it MUST be scrap, rather
>than new steel. What do you guys suggest? NOT stainless- simple high
>carbon.

Im a little confused as to why it MUST be scrap iron as it will be really
difficult to know what material you have. I would go to something like the
metals supermarket
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/  and pick it up from them, they deal in
drops and might have what you need.

>I will need to drill this metal, hopefully in an annealed state, with
>a hole about 3/8" in diameter, about an inch deep. What do you guys
>suggest for:
>
>Type of drill bit
>Type of lubricant
>Annealing method

I would try drilling it with a TiN drill, using tapping fluid as a lube.
Annealing may or may not be needed depending on what you get. If it does
need annealing, then heat it to non magnetic and drop it in a pile of
vermiculite. If vermiculite is not available bury in you ash pile and let
it sit for a day or so.

>And, finally, I'll need to harden the face once I've shaped it. What
>method do you suggest?

Het to non magnetic and swish the face around in transmission fluid or
motor oil. I use Transmission fluid because it has a higher ignition point
and doesn't smoke as bad as motor oil.

>Second. I'm wanting to make a cut-off hardy (although it won't go into
>an anvil) from a piece of car spring I intend to abuse into shape.
>
>How best to anneal it?
>How best to harden the edge when I'm finished abusing it?

Anneal and harden the same as above. Stay away from water.....

>Anybody got any suggestions for high temp clay pipe, maybe 8" to 12"
>long, 1 1/2-2" internal diameter? thickness of walls is not a
>consideration, but a scrounged piece is preferable.

Make one from refractory cement, using 2 pipes as a mold...

mike

>--
>Saint Phlip
>
>Heat it up
>Hit it hard
>Repent as necessary.
>
>Put not your trust in princes, nor in the son of man, in whom there is no
>help.
>
>Psalm 146
>King James Bible
>_______________________________________________
>Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
>theforge mail list group photo site is
>http://www.photoaccess.com
>Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
>password:  anvil
>___________
>

            Mike Linn
      Artist Blacksmith
          McCalla, AL
        AFC Webmaster
http://afc.abana-chapter.com

______________________________________________________________________

"Many of life's failures are people who did not realize how
   close they were to success when they gave up. "
   ~ Thomas A. Edison
______________________________________________________________________

_______________________________________________
Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
theforge mail list group photo site is
http://www.photoaccess.com
Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
password:  anvil
___________

_______________________________________________
Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
theforge mail list group photo site is
http://www.photoaccess.com
Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
password:  anvil
___________