[TheForge] Re: Bricks- Light vs heavy

Chuck Robinson robi5515 at bellsouth.net
Thu Apr 20 12:17:13 EDT 2006


Your right Jerry, but I ues a metal drum filled with vermiculite. Large 
stock is burried in it, by itself.
 Small billets like blades are burried flanked with large slabs of scrap 
stock and left to annealed over night. i. e. 10-12 hours.
Works for me
Chuck
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Frost" <frosty at customcpu.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Bricks- Light vs heavy


> No, what I'm saying is the points of contact between the steel and brick 
> will be hot spots or more accurately will heat and cool at a different 
> rate than the steel out of contact. However it's in contact. These will 
> cause stress points.
>
> Everything in a hot chamber will reach equilibrium and heat/cool together 
> minimizing stresses.
>
> Before you take what I do as gospel though, I'd like one of the guys here 
> who do a lot of heat treating to jump in.
>
> Am I right, wrong, close or does it matter? I learned this from Father but 
> he dealt with a lot of exotics so it may not be as much a factor with high 
> carbon or more mundane alloys.
>
> I just do it the way Dad did. <grin>
>
> Frosty
> -------------------------------
> If it ain't forged
> it ain't real.
> Wrought iron is.
> The FrostWorks
>
> Meadow Lakes, AK.
>
> http://www.artmetalradio.com/
>
> From: "Lynn Emrich" <theatre_weapons at yahoo.com>
>
>
>
>> If I understand you correctly Jerry, it's OK to lay
>> the blade (or object to be annealed) on the bottom
>> brick but keep it from contacting top brick while it
>> cools. Correct?
>> Thanks, Lynn
>>
>>
>
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