[TheForge] Re: Bricks- Light vs heavy

[Chris Kilpatrick]

Put a nail in your drill press, use one with a head on it.  Where you want to drill the rivet hole, put moderate pressure with the drill-nail head.  This should cause the metal to spot anneal.

Chris K.

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gladish Family" <gladish at cnw.com>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Bricks- Light vs heavy
> Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 07:14:38 -0700
> 
> 
> This is interesting, because I've made a few pretty nice knives 
> with L6 and 1095, basically a forged sandwich with the bread being 
> L6 and the baloney 1095. The big problem I have is drilling rivet 
> holes through the L6. IS there a way to anneal it enough that you 
> can drill it? Nothing I've tried so far gets it soft enough to 
> drill, and punching is an inferior method for this, I think.
> 
> Andy G.
> 
> 
> Lynn Emrich wrote:
> 
> > I jumped on the slow cooling bricks because I have had
> > trouble annealing thin stock in the past. I did
> > everything I've always done. As example I would
> > normalize, heat to nonmagnetic + some and air cool
> > more than once, than heat to critical bury in pearlite
> > for cooling. The thin stock, in this case some power
> > hack saw blades a customer wanted a knife made of, and
> > when drilling had problems. I haven't had thin stock to anneal 
> > lately so it hasn't
> > been a problem but the bricks seems to be better than
> > some of my past techniques. Heating to critical and
> > drooping to the bottom of my Don Fogg type forge and
> > turning off the gas. Not correct but quick and easy.
> > Lynn
> >
> >
> > --- Bill Roberts <robertsb at pig.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
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