[TheForge] Re: Kaowool

Jeffrey Polaski jeff.polaski at rgs.uci.edu
Fri Apr 14 13:03:51 EDT 2006


> Demon Buddha [osan at netlabs.net]:
>	I would look at it this way: if you are maintaining heat for
long 
>periods (days or even weeks at a time, or more) then refractory is the 
>way to go, particularly because it is far more durable than wools.  If 
>you heat a few hours a day and you are not too hard on the interior 
>surfaces, wool sis great, especially when you seal it up with material 
>such as ITC100.
Yes, I don't doubt that refractory has its place. I just don't know (or
even know *of*) any blacksmiths who keep their forge running
continuously for days/weeks at a time. I don't know, but maybe
glassblowers do? 

For whoever else might be making a propane forge, I'd like to add to my
previous comment:

    Also, if you're using a propane forge and you put
    in firebricks (for the floor), use the lighter
    "insulating" ones, rather than the heavy-duty
    ones. I switched from insulating bricks to
    heavy-duty bricks, and it added about 30 minutes
    to the time my forge takes to get really hot.

I should have added that lighter bricks will get eaten away by welding
flux much more easily, so heavier bricks still have their place. If
you're *not* doing any forge welding, then light bricks are the way to
go. If you are doing forge welding, then I think the best solution is to
put a thick layer of castable refractory (1/2"--1" thick) over the floor
of your forge. Or, if you can find it, a piece of ceramic shelf
material.


Jeff Polaski



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