[TheForge] Re: Kaowool
Jeffrey Polaski
jeff.polaski at rgs.uci.edu
Fri Apr 14 13:03:51 EDT 2006
> Demon Buddha [osan at netlabs.net]:
> I would look at it this way: if you are maintaining heat for
long
>periods (days or even weeks at a time, or more) then refractory is the
>way to go, particularly because it is far more durable than wools. If
>you heat a few hours a day and you are not too hard on the interior
>surfaces, wool sis great, especially when you seal it up with material
>such as ITC100.
Yes, I don't doubt that refractory has its place. I just don't know (or
even know *of*) any blacksmiths who keep their forge running
continuously for days/weeks at a time. I don't know, but maybe
glassblowers do?
For whoever else might be making a propane forge, I'd like to add to my
previous comment:
Also, if you're using a propane forge and you put
in firebricks (for the floor), use the lighter
"insulating" ones, rather than the heavy-duty
ones. I switched from insulating bricks to
heavy-duty bricks, and it added about 30 minutes
to the time my forge takes to get really hot.
I should have added that lighter bricks will get eaten away by welding
flux much more easily, so heavier bricks still have their place. If
you're *not* doing any forge welding, then light bricks are the way to
go. If you are doing forge welding, then I think the best solution is to
put a thick layer of castable refractory (1/2"--1" thick) over the floor
of your forge. Or, if you can find it, a piece of ceramic shelf
material.
Jeff Polaski
More information about the TheForge
mailing list