[TheForge] Re: Vise squad

Sun May 8 19:35:55 EDT 2005

Do the electric weld and then draw temper with a torch.
Darrell

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
To: <mspencer at tallships.ca>; "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Vise squad

> Hi Mike,  Once again I'm impressed with the progress as you've gone from a
> chevy cavelier friction wheel to a line shaft and flat belt
> drives............      You must be a master tinkerer as I can barely keep
> everything going that run off direct electric motor drives at my place!
Is
> your whole place run off a line shaft? 0r was the band saw that vintage -
so
> you were test firing her for blade testing?
>
> I've had very limited success when welding blades together myself on the
> "Blade Welder" that came with an old Walker Turner band saw I have.  I've
> ground the edges square and flat for a resistance butt weld - then hit the
> power button to anneal like Bzzzzzzzzzt,  Bzzzzzzt, Bzzzzt,  Bzzt, Bzt.
> Letting the red go out further on the blade less and less each time.  I
> found on that whole role of blade stock that I bought that I did give it
an
> honest effort - but found my success rate just didnt' merit buying a
second
> roll and have bought factory "premade's" since then on.
>
> My question to you on the brazed blade repairs is the slight bevel your
> mentioning is square to the blade? or did you bevel them like you'd weld a
> truck frame and angle that slight bevel with the length of the blade to
get
> more surface area for the braze?
>
> I'm guessing this was a but weld with the butt being square but slightly
> beveled in the vertical height of the blade not the length.
>
> I think this is one of those if I saw it we wouldn't be writting so much -
> but such is keyboard show and tell.
>
> I did feel mastering the blade welding thing to be economicly better than
> buying premade ones - but I got frustrated with my success rate and the
time
> I was taking to prove to myself I could do it.  I do know how to braze,
and
> there is a little bit of that blade stock left on the roll, so I'd give
> myself a second chance if you feel this works well.  I think open flame
> brazing at less than half the temperature on high carbon or bimetal blade
> stock would take away that electric annealing process that I could never
get
> consistent with.  Some would last months, others wouldn't make the first
> turn.  :-(
>
> The jig I'm guessing is just a way to hold the blade flat and straight
while
> brazing? are you leaving the center open for flow? or is it tight to a
> ceramic surface or something so it won't stick?
>
> The ability to take a blade that someone using your saw and breaking a
tooth
> cuz they dropped the head to fast or cut too close to a torch cut would be
> great to cut out the broken tooth section of a $50 blade and rebraze it
for
> some continued use........instead of tossing it begrudgingly into the
> trash - or in my case.......putting it on that pin sticking from the wall
> where there are five "repairable" blades for when I'm real bored and want
to
> try my hand at electric annealing - or Mike gives me the true secret to
> success in brazing blades.   :-)
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Spencer" <mspencer at tallships.ca>
> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 12:24 AM
> Subject: [TheForge] Re: Vise squad
>
>
> >
> > > I almost hate to admit this, but I was standing there one day with
> > > four of these really thick 0 rings...
> >
> > Good yarn, Ralph.
> >
> > > I think this qualified for one of those rare and treasured moments
> > > in the shop when ignorance turns to bliss...
> >
> > Yes.
> >
> > BTW, some time ago -- I forget how long -- I asked advice about
> > brazing bandsaw blades.  After several failed experiments, I went with
> > my "ordinary" brazing rod, a jig and a slightly beveled joint,
> > i.e. just a little overlap.  And tehre it sat for months.
> >
> > Yesterday I finally dragged the saw over to where a flatbelt would
> > reach from the lineshaft and fired it up.  Works like a charm.  Blade
> > didn't go !SPUNG!.  Home-made clutch arrangement needed one mod to
> > keep the belt on.
> >
> > Horrible location, blocking the walk-way and no room for a long
> > workpiece but it's proof of concept.
> >
> > - Mike
> >
> > --
> > Michael Spencer                  Nova Scotia, Canada       .~.
> >                                  (902) 543-8375            /V\
> > mspencer at tallships.ca                                     /( )\
> > http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/                        ^^-^^
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