[TheForge] Re: Vise squad

Sun May 8 17:44:27 EDT 2005

Andy,  I thought there was some annealing to be done in this process besides
just butt weld and grind.  Maybe that's my problem.

You might try a 1/16 stick to stand a chance at it - but I'd tend to opt for
braze, Tig or the electric butt welder if it (or I) could work better.

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gladish Family" <gladish at cnw.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Vise squad

> My high school shop teacher had a brand new gee whiz bandsaw that had a
> blade welder built in. You'd just line up the ends in the fixture and
> zap it, perfect spot weld every time. Could this be done with astandard
> welder?
> I know craftsmen who spot weld with regular AC/DC buzz boxes, but have
> never tried it. Renato Muscovic, up near Vancouver BC welds leaves on
> vines and such by grinding a sharp point where it attaches, setting it
> in place, and zapping it with his arc welder. Nice invisible attachment.
> Andy G.
>
> Ralph Sproul wrote:
>
> >Hi Mike,  Once again I'm impressed with the progress as you've gone from
a
> >chevy cavelier friction wheel to a line shaft and flat belt
> >drives............      You must be a master tinkerer as I can barely
keep
> >everything going that run off direct electric motor drives at my place!
Is
> >your whole place run off a line shaft? 0r was the band saw that vintage -
so
> >you were test firing her for blade testing?
> >
> >I've had very limited success when welding blades together myself on the
> >"Blade Welder" that came with an old Walker Turner band saw I have.  I've
> >ground the edges square and flat for a resistance butt weld - then hit
the
> >power button to anneal like Bzzzzzzzzzt,  Bzzzzzzt, Bzzzzt,  Bzzt, Bzt.
> >Letting the red go out further on the blade less and less each time.  I
> >found on that whole role of blade stock that I bought that I did give it
an
> >honest effort - but found my success rate just didnt' merit buying a
second
> >roll and have bought factory "premade's" since then on.
> >
> >My question to you on the brazed blade repairs is the slight bevel your
> >mentioning is square to the blade? or did you bevel them like you'd weld
a
> >truck frame and angle that slight bevel with the length of the blade to
get
> >more surface area for the braze?
> >
> >I'm guessing this was a but weld with the butt being square but slightly
> >beveled in the vertical height of the blade not the length.
> >
> >I think this is one of those if I saw it we wouldn't be writting so
much -
> >but such is keyboard show and tell.
> >
> >I did feel mastering the blade welding thing to be economicly better than
> >buying premade ones - but I got frustrated with my success rate and the
time
> >I was taking to prove to myself I could do it.  I do know how to braze,
and
> >there is a little bit of that blade stock left on the roll, so I'd give
> >myself a second chance if you feel this works well.  I think open flame
> >brazing at less than half the temperature on high carbon or bimetal blade
> >stock would take away that electric annealing process that I could never
get
> >consistent with.  Some would last months, others wouldn't make the first
> >turn.  :-(
> >
> >The jig I'm guessing is just a way to hold the blade flat and straight
while
> >brazing? are you leaving the center open for flow? or is it tight to a
> >ceramic surface or something so it won't stick?
> >
> >The ability to take a blade that someone using your saw and breaking a
tooth
> >cuz they dropped the head to fast or cut too close to a torch cut would
be
> >great to cut out the broken tooth section of a $50 blade and rebraze it
for
> >some continued use........instead of tossing it begrudgingly into the
> >trash - or in my case.......putting it on that pin sticking from the wall
> >where there are five "repairable" blades for when I'm real bored and want
to
> >try my hand at electric annealing - or Mike gives me the true secret to
> >success in brazing blades.   :-)
> >
> >Ralph
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mike Spencer" <mspencer at tallships.ca>
> >To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 12:24 AM
> >Subject: [TheForge] Re: Vise squad
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>>I almost hate to admit this, but I was standing there one day with
> >>>four of these really thick 0 rings...
> >>>
> >>>
> >>Good yarn, Ralph.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>I think this qualified for one of those rare and treasured moments
> >>>in the shop when ignorance turns to bliss...
> >>>
> >>>
> >>Yes.
> >>
> >>BTW, some time ago -- I forget how long -- I asked advice about
> >>brazing bandsaw blades.  After several failed experiments, I went with
> >>my "ordinary" brazing rod, a jig and a slightly beveled joint,
> >>i.e. just a little overlap.  And tehre it sat for months.
> >>
> >>Yesterday I finally dragged the saw over to where a flatbelt would
> >>reach from the lineshaft and fired it up.  Works like a charm.  Blade
> >>didn't go !SPUNG!.  Home-made clutch arrangement needed one mod to
> >>keep the belt on.
> >>
> >>Horrible location, blocking the walk-way and no room for a long
> >>workpiece but it's proof of concept.
> >>
> >>- Mike
> >>
> >>--
> >>Michael Spencer                  Nova Scotia, Canada       .~.
> >>                                 (902) 543-8375            /V\
> >>mspencer at tallships.ca                                     /( )\
> >>http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/                        ^^-^^
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>
> --
> Andy Gladish, Metalwork
> 7141 Guemes Island Rd.
> Anacortes, WA 98221
> Element Forge  www.elementfe.com
> mailto: andy at elementfe.com
>
> I never saw an ugly thing in my life: for let the form of an object be
what
> it may, -- light, shade, and perspective will always make it beautiful.
> -John Constable, painter (1776-1837)
>
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