[TheForge] long distance freight

[Andrew Vida]

Fiorini & Skiles wrote:

> I would also like some recommendations for crate construction.  I'm sure
> that a trucker or forklift operator will bash, stab and drop the crate.  How
> can I construct a wood crate and padding material to put up with the long
> distance abuse?  Do I need to make it easy for a forklift to move around or
> should I put handles on the sides of a wood crate?
> Has anyone used that expanding foam to pad around irregularly shaped
> objects, encased it plastic so it doesn't stick?
> Thanks in advance for your tips.
> -Kirsten

	Crate construction: 1/2" or 3/4" plywood with 2x6 frame assembled with 
drywall screws.  I'd make the bottom about 6" thick and cutout two 
recesses for forklift tines.

	As for padding, if you're referring to the urethane foam in a can, I'm 
not sure that that's the way I'd go because that stuff gets pretty hard 
and might be difficult to remove from negative-draft areas.  You could 
line the crate with an inch of high density polystyrene foam, then 
another inch of the low density variety, then perhaps another layer of 
closed-cell foam.  I don't know if it's worth the cost, but your work 
looks nice and expensive, so I'd probably bet that it is.  Pack it so 
that the work is under pressure from the foam.  The closed cell top 
layer should be almost compressed into the LD styrofoam.  Let there be a 
little wiggle room, but not much... perhaps 1/2" all told.  The work can 
dance a bit but isn't flapping wildly.

The other thing you can do is forget the large amounts of foam and 
secure the work to the inside of the crate with wooden cleats that can 
be faced with some HD styrofoam.  There will be no wiggle room and the 
work will be held rigidly away from the faces of the crate.  In this 
case, give a good 2" clearance on all sides in case some cupcake drops 
or spears the crate.

Be certain to CLEARLY mark which end is up.

Nice work.  Best wishes.  Hi to Bill.

	-Andy