[TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)

Chris Kilpatrick crimsonkil at lycos.com
Thu Jun 2 11:16:29 EDT 2005 

How about welding all thread to it, then running a nut down the all thread. when the nut bottoms out, it puts straight out pressure on the screw extractor

-Chris K.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin Fellenz" <sunironworks at yahoo.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re:  brill dit stock (grrr)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 20:05:24 -0700 (PDT)

> 
> Chuck,
> 
> This is a real good idea. I've had some good luck welding bolts to the
> stud when I can get to it, but the drilled out bolt is a good way to
> get those way-down-deep ones.
> 
> Problem is the screw extractor I used is one of those fluted jobs, not
> the type with a left-hand thread that screws out but the kind with
> parllalel sides that you hammer into an undersize hole. Blue
> Point--ever used one? No, I bet not, because they're crap. Anyway...the
> thing needs to come straight out. Could be I could use your idea to
> weld something to attach a slide hammer onto, though....
> 
> Tomorrow is another day.
> 
> Thanks for your input.
> 
> JRF
> 
> --- Chuck Robinson <robi5515 at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> 
> > Hey Justin,
> > I just found the article in the Home Shop Machinist  March/April 2004
> > bout removing broken taps and studs.
> >  Basically if the tap or stud is close to flush with the surface
> > place the next smaller size nut centered over the hole, reach 
> > down with a 1/16"
> >
> > 308L-L16 rod at 65 amps DCEP and weld the stud to the nut
> > It might take a few tries.
> > If the stud/tap is broken further down in the hole, take a next size
> > down bolt, long enough to touch the stud/tap, center drill a hole in it
> > -large enough for the rod to reach the offending part and weld the bolt to
> > it.
> > I also found that a few squirts of Sili-Kroil penetrant really helps.
> > when backing out the bolt.
> > Chuck
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Fellenz" <sunironworks at yahoo.com>
> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 6:54 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)
> >
> >
> > > Roger,
> > >
> > > Please share how you got that stud out. A stud just twisted off
> > below
> > > grade in an aluminum intake manifold I'm working on, so I drilled a
> > > lovely, perfectly centered hole in the stud and decided--foolish
> > me--to
> > > try my handy-dandy blue-point screw extractor set, which broke off
> > in
> > > the *%)#$(#+ hole. So now I have high-carbon steel in a soft steel
> > > cylinder in aluminum, flush. I can get the broken end of the
> > extractor
> > > good and red without the aluminum disappearing on me, but obviously
> > > cant go hotter. I was hoping that I could anneal the extractor by
> > > keeping the surrounding aluminum warm and then I figgered I'd try
> > my
> > > own idea of heating the durn thing up and then drilling. The heat
> > runs
> > > away so fast I ended up drilling while torching and the drill got
> > red
> > > real fast. Maybe thats the answer though. I'm kind of at an
> > impasse.
> > >
> > > Oh, this is a manifold off an old military truck, not the kind of
> > thing
> > > I want to wreck and have to replace. Goes without saying I suppose.
> > >
> > > So...howd'ja do it?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Justin.
> > >
> > > --- Roger Olsen <erik at methow.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hi Ralph,
> > >>
> > >> Thank you for the offer to send over a stick of Stud Plus but I
> > have
> > >> no need at
> > >> this time.  I solverd my immediatee problem thru stubborness and
> > the
> > >> sacrifice
> > >> of other bits.  I will definitly keep the Stud Plus in mind and
> > when
> > >> next at
> > >> the welding supply by a stick or two.  I had never heard of it
> > >> before.
> > >>
> > >> I sure appreciate all this exchange of information and offers of
> > >> help.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Roger
> > >> _________________________
> > >>
> > >> Ralph Sproul wrote:
> > >>
> > >> > Larry has a good point on this one if the tap is only down about
> > >> 1/8 of an
> > >> > inch.  This rod is called Stud plus by Allstates repair rods.  I
> > >> have
> > >> > purchased and used two packages of this rod for removal of
> > broken
> > >> studs and
> > >> > bolts from flywheels, dampers, castings, etc.
> > >> >
> > >> > I've found the rod does what Larry says and stays to the center
> > if
> > >> your not
> > >> > to deep.  The flux goes out and fills the threads.  On deeper
> > holes
> > >> where
> > >> > something is in about 3/8 to 3/4 deep.......I've used a piece of
> > >> rubber
> > >> > vacuum hose over the stick to make sure I dont' side arc the
> > >> threads.   When
> > >> > it is a real critical location I've also used those fibre faucet
> > >> washers as
> > >> > "bullseyes" to make sure I hit dead center on the broken stud or
> > >> bolt with
> > >> > the rod.
> > >> >
> > >> > Roger, do you want me to send along a rod of this material.   It
> > is
> > >> like
> > >> > 150,018........and it forms up like an icicle - one tack on top
> > of
> > >> the other
> > >> > until you can get a grip on the stack of repair rod with a set
> > of
> > >> vice
> > >> > grips - or welding on a nut to get a better two sided twist
> > works
> > >> well also.
> > >> > So it does not weld up like stud welding - but rather one tack
> > on
> > >> top of the
> > >> > next to build it out to where you can get at it.
> > >> >
> > >> > Ralph
> > >> >
> > >> > ----- Original Message -----
> > >> > From: "Larry and Pat Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> > >> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > >> > Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 9:42 PM
> > >> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] drill bit stock
> > >> >
> > >> > > Do you have an electric welder? They sell a rod for building
> > up
> > >> broken
> > >> > > bolts to get them out, The rod burns in the center, under the
> > >> coating and
> > >> > > doesn't arc to the sides allowing you to puddle a new bolt
> > shaft.
> > >> Used
> > >> > them
> > >> > > about 4 times with success. Would have used more but that was
> > all
> > >> that was
> > >> > > in the sample pack. I would try to heat the bit first, then
> > build
> > >> it up to
> > >> > > where vise grips will help
> > >> > > Larry Brown
> > >> > >
> > >> > >
> > >> > > At 08:50 AM 5/31/2005 -0700, you wrote:
> > >> > > >Does anyone out there know the type of stock used in the
> > common
> > >> hardware
> > >> > > >store high speed drill bits for steel.  Do you per chance
> > know
> > >> the steps
> > >> > > >for annealing them.
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >Yes,  I ask because I broke a drill bit in a piece of stock
> > >> where
> > >> > > >welding, reforging, and repositioning was not an option.  I
> > >> tried all
> > >> > > >the tricks as well as attemting to anneal as I would a common
> > >> high
> > >> > > >carbon steel and drill it out but it seemed to have little or
> > no
> > >> affect.
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >Thank you,
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >Roger Olsen
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >_______________________________________________
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> > >> > >
> > >> > >
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> > >> > >
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