[TheForge]Gun metal care question

[Andrew Vida]

If you want, bring it to the shop and we can do the job.  I love doing 
work like this, so it's a pleasure for me.

	-Andy

Pettengill, Nate wrote:
> Hey Andy, 
> 
> Thanks for the info, It's not any thing super duper, I bought it to
> teach the daughter but it shot so well I ended up keeping it myself. She
> can have it the will. But it's definitely worth taking care of. Good
> advice though, I'll get the fore-end off and see if the rust is down in
> the action too. If it is, I think I'll go see the local gun guy, I'm not
> too good with the little machine screws and circle clips anymore. 
> 
> On the job front, I'm back with the Lockmart guys in Jersey after the
> December layoff in Rhode Island. It's work but looks like I'm never
> going to get that forge in Mass done. My son's headed to San Diego for
> work next month. Best to you and the daughter.
> 
> Nate
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 5:48 PM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge]Gun metal care question
> 
> 
> 
> Pettengill, Nate wrote:
>  > I had cleaned and oiled them up then stored
> 
>>them in foam-lined cases when I moved but never checked them for a
> 
> year
> 
>>or so.
> 
> 	
> 	Foam lining == badness.
> 
>  > No place to hunt around here anyway. What to do to refinish them?
> 
> 	I just reblued a Browning A-5 (Remington manufacture) that was
> pretty 
> rusty, though superficially so.  This is an Arizona gun, so don't think 
> that a "dry" environment is any guarantee.
> 
> 	I would completely disassemble the weapon (if you feel
> comfortable 
> doing so) and begin with fine steel wool on the rusted areas, using 
> perhaps some Hoppes nitro solvent as a vehicle.  If the rust is truly 
> superficial, you should be able to remove all the rust using this 
> method.  I would then wash all metal parts in hot water and dish 
> detergent and dry thoroughly.  Lubricate with a good quality machine 
> oil, reassemble the weapon, and wrap in a lightly oiled cloth.  I think 
> there are cloth tubes available that are treated with some sort of rust 
> inhibitors that you can get.
> 
> 	If this arm has antique or collector value, do as little as
> possible to 
> alter the external appearance of the surfaces.  If it is really worth 
> something, I'd have it professionally reblued.  If it isn't a 
> collector's item and the rust is significant, I would reblue it myself. 
>   I've done several weapons over the years and when I was done, nobody 
> could tell that they had been refinished.  To remove blue, cut muriatic 
> acid perhaps 1:5 with water and immerse clean and degreased parts in it 
> until the old blue is gone, which should take very little time. 
> Neutralize in bicarb solution and dry thoroughly.  You may then choose 
> whether to refinish the metal or just apply a new blue/brown patina. 
> It's a lot of fun... at least I think it is, but I would not attempt it 
> on a treasure.
> 
> So Nate, how's the job market?  Anything new?  I'm still looking, if you
> 
> can believe that. :(
> 
> Adios.
> 
> 
>>Fine emery cloth? Then gun blue and Navy grease? Any better ideas?
>>
>>
>>Regards, 
>>
>>Nate 
>>
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