[TheForge]Gun metal care question
Pettengill, Nate
nate.pettengill at lmco.com
Wed Jan 12 18:13:56 EST 2005
Hey Andy,
Thanks for the info, It's not any thing super duper, I bought it to
teach the daughter but it shot so well I ended up keeping it myself. She
can have it the will. But it's definitely worth taking care of. Good
advice though, I'll get the fore-end off and see if the rust is down in
the action too. If it is, I think I'll go see the local gun guy, I'm not
too good with the little machine screws and circle clips anymore.
On the job front, I'm back with the Lockmart guys in Jersey after the
December layoff in Rhode Island. It's work but looks like I'm never
going to get that forge in Mass done. My son's headed to San Diego for
work next month. Best to you and the daughter.
Nate
-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 5:48 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge]Gun metal care question
Pettengill, Nate wrote:
> I had cleaned and oiled them up then stored
> them in foam-lined cases when I moved but never checked them for a
year
> or so.
Foam lining == badness.
> No place to hunt around here anyway. What to do to refinish them?
I just reblued a Browning A-5 (Remington manufacture) that was
pretty
rusty, though superficially so. This is an Arizona gun, so don't think
that a "dry" environment is any guarantee.
I would completely disassemble the weapon (if you feel
comfortable
doing so) and begin with fine steel wool on the rusted areas, using
perhaps some Hoppes nitro solvent as a vehicle. If the rust is truly
superficial, you should be able to remove all the rust using this
method. I would then wash all metal parts in hot water and dish
detergent and dry thoroughly. Lubricate with a good quality machine
oil, reassemble the weapon, and wrap in a lightly oiled cloth. I think
there are cloth tubes available that are treated with some sort of rust
inhibitors that you can get.
If this arm has antique or collector value, do as little as
possible to
alter the external appearance of the surfaces. If it is really worth
something, I'd have it professionally reblued. If it isn't a
collector's item and the rust is significant, I would reblue it myself.
I've done several weapons over the years and when I was done, nobody
could tell that they had been refinished. To remove blue, cut muriatic
acid perhaps 1:5 with water and immerse clean and degreased parts in it
until the old blue is gone, which should take very little time.
Neutralize in bicarb solution and dry thoroughly. You may then choose
whether to refinish the metal or just apply a new blue/brown patina.
It's a lot of fun... at least I think it is, but I would not attempt it
on a treasure.
So Nate, how's the job market? Anything new? I'm still looking, if you
can believe that. :(
Adios.
> Fine emery cloth? Then gun blue and Navy grease? Any better ideas?
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Nate
>
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