[TheForge] Warped!

gblacksmith gblacksmith at alamedanet.net
Fri Feb 18 12:53:53 EST 2005


Kirsten:  You describe a problem common with nearly all flat bar projects. 
I do numerous tables and mirror frames and I have  found that making sure 
the flats bars are truly plumb prior to assembly is a BIG help.  I often 
texture these elements with my fly press or via a texture tool made from an 
axle spline section.  I do his work hot, and when completed, I lay the bar 
on a flat surface and test for truth by checking all four sides against a 
known flat surface, like a layout table or the concrete deck.  I make 
adjustments where the gaps are, typically with a fly press.

I have also found that flats, as they come from the mill, are not straight 
at all, though they used to be.  I straighten these in my fly press, cold, 
if I'm not going to texture them hot.  I have seen some runout in as-milled 
flats that is truly awful.

All of these checks are done prior to welding or other joinery.  I have 
found that flats of 1/4" thick or less warp badly just in handling them, if 
a weight load is placed on them, so I don't use less than 3/8" for frames.

When I weld, I clamp firmly, and allow to cool in place in still air.  Use a 
stitch weld in long sections and know that the longer the section, the worse 
the runout/warpage tends to be.  Bon Chance.

                                                                             
                                                Grant
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fiorini & Skiles" <bkmetal at mwt.net>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 5:12 AM
Subject: [TheForge] Warped!


> When creating a rectangular frame from strap steel, is there any way to
> prevent warping?  Is there any magic way to fix it, other than beating the
> heck out of it?
> -Kirsten
> bkmetal at mwt.net
> http://www.mwt.net/~bkmetal/index.html
> Japanese Forging Hammers at http://www.mwt.net/~bkmetal/Billhome.html
>
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