[TheForge] Warped!
gblacksmith
gblacksmith at alamedanet.net
Fri Feb 18 12:53:53 EST 2005
Kirsten: You describe a problem common with nearly all flat bar projects.
I do numerous tables and mirror frames and I have found that making sure
the flats bars are truly plumb prior to assembly is a BIG help. I often
texture these elements with my fly press or via a texture tool made from an
axle spline section. I do his work hot, and when completed, I lay the bar
on a flat surface and test for truth by checking all four sides against a
known flat surface, like a layout table or the concrete deck. I make
adjustments where the gaps are, typically with a fly press.
I have also found that flats, as they come from the mill, are not straight
at all, though they used to be. I straighten these in my fly press, cold,
if I'm not going to texture them hot. I have seen some runout in as-milled
flats that is truly awful.
All of these checks are done prior to welding or other joinery. I have
found that flats of 1/4" thick or less warp badly just in handling them, if
a weight load is placed on them, so I don't use less than 3/8" for frames.
When I weld, I clamp firmly, and allow to cool in place in still air. Use a
stitch weld in long sections and know that the longer the section, the worse
the runout/warpage tends to be. Bon Chance.
Grant
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fiorini & Skiles" <bkmetal at mwt.net>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 5:12 AM
Subject: [TheForge] Warped!
> When creating a rectangular frame from strap steel, is there any way to
> prevent warping? Is there any magic way to fix it, other than beating the
> heck out of it?
> -Kirsten
> bkmetal at mwt.net
> http://www.mwt.net/~bkmetal/index.html
> Japanese Forging Hammers at http://www.mwt.net/~bkmetal/Billhome.html
>
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