[TheForge] welding cast iron
Darrell
darrell67 at machinemaster.com
Fri Dec 9 19:55:11 EST 2005
I have watched a demonstrator use the piston rings to weld on a cast iron
exhaust manifold.
One weld was on a crack and the other was filling a hole.
Could hardly tell where when he was done. He was demonstrating the HenRob
torch at the NWBA conference.
Darrell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Clontz" <rayclontz at bellsouth.net>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 4:28 PM
Subject: [TheForge] welding cast iron
> I have never done it, but some old time welders I know say they weld cast
> iron using cast piston rings for the filler rod-might be worth a
> try-probably get all the
> filler rod free from a engine rebuilder
> (hot rodder)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <theforge-request at mailman.qth.net>
> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 4:03 PM
> Subject: TheForge Digest, Vol 23, Issue 10
>
>
> > Send TheForge mailing list submissions to
> > theforge at mailman.qth.net
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > theforge-request at mailman.qth.net
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > theforge-owner at mailman.qth.net
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of TheForge digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. RE: Welding cast iron (Washington, Aubrey O.)
> > 2. RE: Tire power hammer/YAK long (Daniel Kretchmar)
> > 3. RE: Welding cast iron (Washington, Aubrey O.)
> > 4. Re: TheForge Digest, Vol 23, Issue 9 (Ray Clontz)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 11:22:30 -0600
> > From: "Washington, Aubrey O." <awashington at ou.edu>
> > Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> > To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Message-ID:
> > <2E392E1E4AF06D46B1720012FF4E207001B5DC61 at XMAIL1.sooner.net.ou.edu>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Todd, I hope we get some snow. It sure has been dry around here! But,
so
> > far the sky is clear here in Norman. How does it look over your
> > direction.
> >
> > Bruce, thanks for the link on cast iron welding. Based on what they
say,
> > it looks like brazing may be my best bet. I have done very little
> > brazing, so I could use some input. Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
> >
> > 1. Clean the area around the break as well as I can of 90 years of
> > grease;
> > 2. File a V groove on both sides, leaving a little of the original in
the
> > middle to index the pieces;
> > 3. Clamp or wire the two pieces in position to a convenient length of
bar
> > stock;
> > 4. Heat the whole set-up to 900* or so in the forge; (Why do they say
> > not to use propane?)
> > 5. Braze the joint using the O/A torch; probably in several passes,
> > alternating sides.
> >
> > Here are a few questions I have (so far):
> > 1. What kind of brazing rod should I use? The flux coated kind you get
> > at the hardware store? Bare rod dipped in flux?
> > 2. If I use bare rod, what kind of flux should I dip it in?
> > 3. Do I put flux on the ends of the broken piece, or just on the rod?
> > 4. How do I tell when I get the preheat to 900*?
> >
> > I'm sure I'll have more questions later.
> >
> > Aubrey
> > 18 degrees but no snow in Norman
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 11:31:39 -0600
> > From: Daniel Kretchmar <dan at irontreeworks.com>
> > Subject: RE: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
> > To: Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Message-ID: <1133976699.43971c7b09a7a at vhost1.itasca.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> >
> > Greetings,
> > I built one of those tire hammer based on the pictures on the
anvilfire
> > JYH
> > site. Its called the North Carolina JYH by Steve Barringer of B2
Design,
> > Ltd.
> > Mine is at the following URL
> >
> > http://www.irontreeworks.com/the_shop.htm
> >
> > I built mine for about $700 and that includes about $300 of mistakes
that
> > I
> > wouldn't make a 2nd time. I could do it again for about $500 without
> > "too"
> > much of scounging. Mine is simpler that the one on the anvilfire page
and
> > alot
> > of it was trial and error until it worked. I also know that I will come
> > to
> > regret the lack of grease fittings on mine. I will have to replace the
> > shaft
> > the spring is attached to and add a grease fitting when I do a refit,
but
> > all
> > that aside, without knowing anything about powerhammers, it was easy to
> > learn
> > to use and it hits hard (my ram is 45 lbs + the dies. I have replaced
the
> > shock
> > absorber inte the picture with a custom leaf spring ($75) and my anvil
is
> > 6x6x(3/4)" thick wall tube. YES it is HOLLOW! The back support is 6x8
3/3
> > inch
> > wall tubing filled with scrap steel and concrete!!! It walked a bit at
> > first
> > until I filled the anvil with sand and welded it shut. I have two pins
> > welded
> > to the base that stick into the floor to stop the walking but it is not
> > bolted
> > down and it doesn't rock even at full speed (about 160 beats per minute)
> >
> > On the other hand, I found a 50# Little Giant almost two years ago that
I
> > am in
> > the process of refurbishing and I still don't have that working :) I
> > wouldn't
> > even be able fix the thing at all, if Pete Stanitis hadn't had class at
> > his
> > place about rebuilding them last summer. The little giant gets it's own
> > floor
> > and room addition.....
> >
> > Daniel Kretchmar
> > www.irontreeworks.com
> > Traditional Woodworking and Blacksmithing
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 11:42:45 -0600
> > From: "Washington, Aubrey O." <awashington at ou.edu>
> > Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> > To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Message-ID:
> > <2E392E1E4AF06D46B1720012FF4E207001B5DC62 at XMAIL1.sooner.net.ou.edu>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Tod,
> >
> > I liked your suggestion of forging a replacement part for the post drill
> > and then also attempting a repair on the broken part. That way I'll
> > double my chances of having a working drill. From a purely historical
> > perspective, I like the idea of keeping the original part with the
drill,
> > even if it has been repaired several times. But I don't have a problem
> > with using a replacement part on a daily basis while saving the original
> > in a safe place.
> >
> > Aubrey
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 16:00:04 -0500
> > From: "Ray Clontz" <rayclontz at bellsouth.net>
> > Subject: [TheForge] Re: TheForge Digest, Vol 23, Issue 9
> > To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Message-ID: <000701c5fb71$32bd9a50$0505a8c0 at CLONTZXP>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> > reply-type=original
> >
> > If you want to know the inventor of the power hammer-go to
> > anvilfire -power
> > hammer page -user built hammers- NC
> > green machine - designed by Ray Clontz
> > from Charlotte NC. I gave Clay permission to do the builds like he was
> > doing
> > the threadle hammers . The :tire"
> > hammer is a great machine for somebody that only needs a 50 # hammer
and
> > a
> > lage hammer would be "overkill " for their shop and possibly their
budget.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <theforge-request at mailman.qth.net>
> > To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 11:14 AM
> > Subject: TheForge Digest, Vol 23, Issue 9
> >
> >
> >> Send TheForge mailing list submissions to
> >> theforge at mailman.qth.net
> >>
> >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >> theforge-request at mailman.qth.net
> >>
> >> You can reach the person managing the list at
> >> theforge-owner at mailman.qth.net
> >>
> >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> >> than "Re: Contents of TheForge digest..."
> >>
> >>
> >> Today's Topics:
> >>
> >> 1. Re: Tire power hammer/YAK long (Rick)
> >> 2. RE: Tire power hammer/YAK long (Grover Richardson)
> >> 3. Re: Welding cast iron (John Husvar)
> >> 4. RE: Welding cast iron (Washington, Aubrey O.)
> >> 5. RE: Welding cast iron (Tod Estes)
> >> 6. Re: Welding cast iron (Bruce Freeman)
> >> 7. RE: Welding cast iron (Bruce Freeman)
> >>
> >>
> >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 1
> >> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 06:20:59 -0600
> >> From: "Rick" <rick at smokyforge.com>
> >> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
> >> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Message-ID: <002d01c5fb28$aea15740$6701a8c0 at Rickhome>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
> >> reply-type=original
> >>
> >> Hello Roger -
> >>
> >> I think we should try to get Clay to do this for UMBA. I would like
> >> to
> >> have a power hammer and DON'T like the noise of an air compressor
running
> >> all the time. Also, I have heard of these hammers and their cood
> >> control-ability. Maybe we can get something going, what do you think?
> >>
> >> Rick Crawford at Rafter Lazy C
> >> Home of Smoky Forge and Lem the Wonder Mule
> >> In the middle of Northern Illinois
> >>
> >> http://www.smokyforge.com
> >> rick at smokyforge.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Roger R Degner" <rog781 at means.net>
> >> To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Cc: <blacksmiths at yahoogroups.com>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 5:45 PM
> >> Subject: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
> >>
> >>
> >>>I have returned home from the Alabama Forge Council conference where I
> >>> got the opportunity to watch Clay Spencer run a shop made #50
mechanical
> >>> hammer made with a emergency spare tire as the clutch. He gave the
name
> >>> of the inventor several times but I don't remember it at the moment.
> >>>
> >>> I thought this hammer was the BEST running mechanical trip hammer I
ever
> >>> watched work.
> >>> It always stopped with the hammer in the up position
> >>> He was using it with flat dies and showed many different types of top
> >>> tooling mainly spring swages/fuller but some hand held top tooling
also.
> >>> When just using the dies it did a very good job of drawing
> >>>
> >>> clip
> >>>
> >>> I taped the demonstration and am converting it to DVD-R. It will
> >>> eventually be avalible from the UMBA library for $7 shipped. A full
> >>> list of videos are at www.umbaonline.org
> >>>
> >>> The AFC group was very nice to visit. They have two buildings for the
> >>> demos equipped with a little giant, a treadle hammer, forging press,
one
> >>> of Tom Clarks Air Hammers vises tables forges and all the tooling a
> >>> typical shop could every want other than a cone mandrel.
> >>> The weather was a drastic change on the way home. It was at least 50s
> >>> there and when I awoke at a rest stop at 4am on the way home to
> >>> Minnesota it was -9. It was 1150 miles one way but well worth the
trip.
> >>> They say next years conference will be the weekend after labor day in
> >>> September so mark your calendars.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Roger R Degner
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> >> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >> Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.10/190 - Release Date:
> >> 12/1/2005
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 2
> >> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 08:11:20 -0500
> >> From: "Grover Richardson" <grover.richardson at gtri.gatech.edu>
> >> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
> >> To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Message-ID: <003e01c5fb2f$b8445d90$2c0a670a at atasad.ccrf>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> >>
> >> Put the compressor out back in another building/area. That's what Dan
> >> Tull
> >> does<G>. Never hear the compressor. Note though, for my side work,
it's
> >> about 100' from the compressor to the work area. Have to put a water
> >> separator at the work location also. Georgia, sometimes humidity gets
> >> dense
> >> enough you need a water pump<G>.
> >>
> >>>*>-----Original Message-----
> >>>*>From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> >>>*>[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick
> >>>*>Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 7:21 AM
> >>>*>To: Sponsored by ABANA
> >>>*>Subject: Re: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
> >>>*>
> >>>*>
> >>>*>Hello Roger -
> >>>*>
> >>>*> I think we should try to get Clay to do this for UMBA.
> >>>*>I would like to
> >>>*>have a power hammer and DON'T like the noise of an air
> >>>*>compressor running
> >>>*>all the time. Also, I have heard of these hammers and their cood
> >>>*>control-ability. Maybe we can get something going, what do
> >>>*>you think?
> >>>*>
> >>>*>Rick Crawford at Rafter Lazy C
> >>>*> Home of Smoky Forge and Lem the Wonder Mule
> >>>*> In the middle of Northern Illinois
> >>>*>
> >>>*> http://www.smokyforge.com
> >>>*> rick at smokyforge.com
> >>>*>
> >>>*>
> >>>*>
> >>>*>----- Original Message -----
> >>>*>From: "Roger R Degner" <rog781 at means.net>
> >>>*>To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >>>*>Cc: <blacksmiths at yahoogroups.com>
> >>>*>Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 5:45 PM
> >>>*>Subject: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
> >>>*>
> >>>*>
> >>>*>>I have returned home from the Alabama Forge Council
> >>>*>conference where I
> >>>*>>got the opportunity to watch Clay Spencer run a shop made #50
> >>>*>>mechanical hammer made with a emergency spare tire as the
> >>>*>clutch. He
> >>>*>>gave the name of the inventor several times but I don't
> >>>*>remember it at
> >>>*>>the moment.
> >>>*>>
> >>>*>> I thought this hammer was the BEST running mechanical trip
> >>>*>hammer I
> >>>*>> ever watched work. It always stopped with the hammer in the up
> >>>*>> position He was using it with flat dies and showed many different
> >>>*>> types of top tooling mainly spring swages/fuller but some
> >>>*>hand held
> >>>*>> top tooling also. When just using the dies it did a very
> >>>*>good job of
> >>>*>> drawing
> >>>*>>
> >>>*>> clip
> >>>*>>
> >>>*>> I taped the demonstration and am converting it to DVD-R. It will
> >>>*>> eventually be avalible from the UMBA library for $7
> >>>*>shipped. A full
> >>>*>> list of videos are at www.umbaonline.org
> >>>*>>
> >>>*>> The AFC group was very nice to visit. They have two
> >>>*>buildings for the
> >>>*>> demos equipped with a little giant, a treadle hammer,
> >>>*>forging press,
> >>>*>> one of Tom Clarks Air Hammers vises tables forges and all
> >>>*>the tooling
> >>>*>> a typical shop could every want other than a cone mandrel.
> >>>*>The weather
> >>>*>> was a drastic change on the way home. It was at least 50s
> >>>*>there and
> >>>*>> when I awoke at a rest stop at 4am on the way home to
> >>>*>Minnesota it was
> >>>*>> -9. It was 1150 miles one way but well worth the trip.
> >>>*>They say next
> >>>*>> years conference will be the weekend after labor day in
> >>>*>September so
> >>>*>> mark your calendars.
> >>>*>>
> >>>*>>
> >>>*>>
> >>>*>> Roger R Degner
> >>>*>
> >>>*>
> >>>*>
> >>>*>--
> >>>*>No virus found in this outgoing message.
> >>>*>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >>>*>Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.10/190 - Release
> >>>*>Date: 12/1/2005
> >>>*>
> >>>*>_______________________________________________
> >>>*>Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> >>>*>>*>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> >>>*>theforge
> >>>*>mail list group photo site is http://www.photoaccess.com
> >>>*>Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> >>>*>password: anvil
> >>>*>___________
> >>>*>
> >>>*>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 3
> >> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 08:50:28 -0500
> >> From: John Husvar <jhusvar at sbcglobal.net>
> >> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> >> To: Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Message-ID: <5974CB35-E2CF-43A4-836A-8D4D2B82BD7D at sbcglobal.net>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
> >>
> >>
> >> On Dec 6, 2005, at 2:04 PM, Bruce Freeman wrote:
> >>
> >>>
> >>> But graphite would burn off less readily, and more would be exposed
> >>> as you melted the mother metal.
> >>
> >> So that's what the correct name of that stuff is, Mother Metal! I
> >> usually add a suffix on the first word. Maybe it gets insulted and
> >> that's why I can't weld it worth a darn! :)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 4
> >> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 09:40:13 -0600
> >> From: "Washington, Aubrey O." <awashington at ou.edu>
> >> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> >> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Message-ID:
> >> <2E392E1E4AF06D46B1720012FF4E207001B5DC60 at XMAIL1.sooner.net.ou.edu>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >>
> >> As long as we are talking about welding cast iron, I have a question.
> >> Recently I bought an Acme post drill that looks exactly like one in the
> >> 1915 Sears catalog; the one for $7.10 at
> >> http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/drilling/postdril.htm. After
cleaning
> >> off 90 years of ossified grease and dirt and oiling it up, the drill
> >> worked great! I was able to drill a 3/4" hole in 1/8" plate in a
couple
> >> of minutes. I was so happy I began gleefully drilling holes in
> >> everything
> >> I could find. Then came the problem; I broke my new toy.
> >>
> >> The small wheel at the top advances the down-feed of the spindle by
means
> >> of a pivot arm that works against the eccentric hub of the flywheel. I
> >> broke the pivot arm by continuing to crank after the spindle reached
its
> >> maximum extension. In my feeble defense, it broke at or near a previous
> >> repair.
> >>
> >> Now here are my questions. Is this arm likely to be cast iron? It
looks
> >> like it might be because the angular shape of it looks like it was
> >> designed to release from a mold. The interior of the break looks grey
> >> and
> >> grainy. From this thread I take it the repair could be done by arc
> >> welding with nickel rod, brazing, or gas welding with iron. Bernie
> >> points
> >> out that expansion is often a big problem in welding cast. But that
> >> should not be much of an issue with this part since it is small and
there
> >> is no restriction on expansion in the length of the arm. It would also
> >> be
> >> easy to pre and post heat. BTW, if I decide to weld it, I will find
> >> someone else to do it since I'm a lousy welder.
> >>
> >> Is any repair likely to be strong enough for the strain put on this
part?
> >> Would I be better off just forging a new arm out of mild or medium
carbon
> >> steel?
> >>
> >> Aubrey Washington
> >> Saltfork Craftsmen ABA, ABANA
> >> Rock Creek Forge
> >> Norman, OK
> >>
> >>
> >> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 16:26:20 +0900
> >> From: Bisnette SSgt Bernie R <BisnetteBR at 1maw.usmc.mil>
> >> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> >> To: "'blacksmith at atlasok.com'" <blacksmith at atlasok.com>,
> >> 'Sponsored
> >> by
> >> ABANA' <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Message-ID:
> >> <3621DB29C10C214F8D7445C338C5C5F9D913B9 at 1maw01e.1maw.usmc.mil>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain
> >>
> >> I've been following this thread and here's what I can throw in the mix:
> >>
> >> Gray cast iron is 94% pure iron and varying portions of carbon,
> >> manganese,
> >> phosphorus, silicon and sulfur. Engine blocks, pulleys, and pump
bodies
> >> use
> >> this. A torch test will show a heavy tough film that forms on the
> >> surface
> >> as it melts. Spark test will reveal a small volume of dull red sparks
> >> that
> >> follows a straight line will form close to the wheel. These break up
> >> into
> >> fine, repeated spurts, which change to straw color.
> >>
> >> White cast iron is produced by casting against metal chills. This
causes
> >> the free carbon in the gray cast iron to combine with the iron.
> >> Recommend
> >> NOT to be welded. It is very hard and brittle.
> >>
> >> Malleable cast iron. Created by heating white cast iron to about 1,659
> >> deg
> >> F and holding it here for several hours or even days and cooling it
> >> slowly.
> >> Can be bent without breaking and it will withstand shock. Hard wearing
> >> hand
> >> tools, pipe fittings and automotive parts are usually made with this.
> >> Spark
> >> testing will show the outer bright layer gives bright sparks like
steel.
> >> When the interior is reached the sparks quickly change to dull read
color
> >> near the wheel. A little longer spark than that from gray cast.
> >>
> >> I was taught that the big problem with welding cast is the expansion.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 5
> >> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 09:53:05 -0600 (CST)
> >> From: "Tod Estes" <blacksmith at atlasok.com>
> >> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> >> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Message-ID: <57285.70.184.20.213.1133970785.squirrel at mail.atlasok.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
> >>
> >> Comments below
> >>
> >>> As long as we are talking about welding cast iron, I have a question.
> >>> Recently I bought an Acme post drill that looks exactly like one in
the
> >>> 1915 Sears catalog; the one for $7.10 at
> >>> http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/drilling/postdril.htm. After
cleaning
> >>> off 90 years of ossified grease and dirt and oiling it up, the drill
> >>> worked great! I was able to drill a 3/4" hole in 1/8" plate in a
couple
> >>> of minutes. I was so happy I began gleefully drilling holes in
> >>> everything
> >>> I could find. Then came the problem; I broke my new toy.
> >>>
> >>> The small wheel at the top advances the down-feed of the spindle by
> >>> means
> >>> of a pivot arm that works against the eccentric hub of the flywheel.
I
> >>> broke the pivot arm by continuing to crank after the spindle reached
its
> >>> maximum extension. In my feeble defense, it broke at or near a
previous
> >>> repair.
> >>>
> >>> Now here are my questions. Is this arm likely to be cast iron? It
> >>> looks
> >>> like it might be because the angular shape of it looks like it was
> >>> designed to release from a mold. The interior of the break looks grey
> >>> and
> >>> grainy. From this thread I take it the repair could be done by arc
> >>> welding with nickel rod, brazing, or gas welding with iron. Bernie
> >>> points
> >>> out that expansion is often a big problem in welding cast. But that
> >>> should not be much of an issue with this part since it is small and
> >>> there
> >>> is no restriction on expansion in the length of the arm. It would
also
> >>> be
> >>> easy to pre and post heat. BTW, if I decide to weld it, I will find
> >>> someone else to do it since I'm a lousy welder.
> >>>
> >>> Is any repair likely to be strong enough for the strain put on this
> >>> part?
> >>> Would I be better off just forging a new arm out of mild or medium
> >>> carbon
> >>> steel?
> >>>
> >>> Aubrey Washington
> >>> Saltfork Craftsmen ABA, ABANA
> >>> Rock Creek Forge
> >>> Norman, OK
> >> Hi Aubrey, think we will get snow today?
> >>
> >> Since it is such a small part and you think that you can forge one to
> >> replace it then you are not at a loss. Give welding it a try. With a
> >> small
> >> part you can easily preheat then insulate to very slow cooling. If that
> >> fails then forge a new one. Or mebe forge the new one first then try
> >> welding the old one so you have a spare for the next time it breaks. I
> >> have an old post drill too lots of fun to play with but I get too
> >> impatinent and end up binding it too often.
> >>
> >> Tod Estes
> >> Oologah Smithy
> >> Oologah,Oklahoma. (Home of Will Rogers.)
> >> Saltfork Craftsmen ABA, ABANA
> >> Time enough for sleep in the grave.
> >>
> >> "Prometheus: I took from man expectancy of death.
> >> Chorus: What medicine found'st thou for this
> >> malady?
> >> Prometheus: I planted blind hope in the heart of
> >> him.
> >> Chorus: A mighty boon thou gavest there to man.
> >> Prometheus: Moreover, I conferred the gift of fire
> >> Chorus: And have frail mortals now the flame-
> >> bright fire.
> >> Prometheus: yes, and shall master many arts
> >> thereby."
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 6
> >> Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 11:03:44 -0500
> >> From: "Bruce Freeman" <FREEMAB at pt.fdah.com>
> >> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> >> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Message-ID: <s396c1a3.013 at gv01a67m.gv.us.pri.wyeth.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> >>
> >> Of COURSE that's the correct name. Did you think I'd lead you astray?
> >>
> >> But be careful how you pronounce "mother"!
> >>
> >> Bruce
> >> NJ
> >>
> >>>>> jhusvar at sbcglobal.net 12/7/2005 8:50:28 AM >>>
> >>
> >> On Dec 6, 2005, at 2:04 PM, Bruce Freeman wrote:
> >>
> >>>
> >>> But graphite would burn off less readily, and more would be exposed
> >>> as you melted the mother metal.
> >>
> >> So that's what the correct name of that stuff is, Mother Metal! I
> >> usually add a suffix on the first word. Maybe it gets insulted and
> >> that's why I can't weld it worth a darn! :)
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> >> theforge mail list group photo site is
> >> http://www.photoaccess.com
> >> Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> >> password: anvil
> >> ___________
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >> Message: 7
> >> Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 11:11:54 -0500
> >> From: "Bruce Freeman" <FREEMAB at pt.fdah.com>
> >> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> >> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Message-ID: <s396c38b.010 at gv01a67m.gv.us.pri.wyeth.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> >>
> >> I stumbled on this:
> >> http://www.locknstitch.com/CastIronWelding.htm
> >>
> >> Bruce
> >> NJ
> >>
> >>>>> awashington at ou.edu 12/7/2005 10:40:13 AM >>>
> >> As long as we are talking about welding cast iron, I have a question.
> >> Recently I bought an Acme post drill that looks exactly like one in the
> >> 1915 Sears catalog; the one for $7.10 at
> >> http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/drilling/postdril.htm. After
cleaning
> >> off 90 years of ossified grease and dirt and oiling it up, the drill
> >> worked great! I was able to drill a 3/4" hole in 1/8" plate in a
couple
> >> of minutes. I was so happy I began gleefully drilling holes in
> >> everything
> >> I could find. Then came the problem; I broke my new toy.
> >>
> >> The small wheel at the top advances the down-feed of the spindle by
means
> >> of a pivot arm that works against the eccentric hub of the flywheel. I
> >> broke the pivot arm by continuing to crank after the spindle reached
its
> >> maximum extension. In my feeble defense, it broke at or near a previous
> >> repair.
> >>
> >> Now here are my questions. Is this arm likely to be cast iron? It
looks
> >> like it might be because the angular shape of it looks like it was
> >> designed to release from a mold. The interior of the break looks grey
> >> and
> >> grainy. From this thread I take it the repair could be done by arc
> >> welding with nickel rod, brazing, or gas welding with iron. Bernie
> >> points
> >> out that expansion is often a big problem in welding cast. But that
> >> should not be much of an issue with this part since it is small and
there
> >> is no restriction on expansion in the length of the arm. It would also
> >> be
> >> easy to pre and post heat. BTW, if I decide to weld it, I will find
> >> someone else to do it since I'm a lousy welder.
> >>
> >> Is any repair likely to be strong enough for the strain put on this
part?
> >> Would I be better off just forging a new arm out of mild or medium
carbon
> >> steel?
> >>
> >> Aubrey Washington
> >> Saltfork Craftsmen ABA, ABANA
> >> Rock Creek Forge
> >> Norman, OK
> >>
> >>
> >> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 16:26:20 +0900
> >> From: Bisnette SSgt Bernie R <BisnetteBR at 1maw.usmc.mil>
> >> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> >> To: "'blacksmith at atlasok.com'" <blacksmith at atlasok.com>,
> >> 'Sponsored
> >> by
> >> ABANA' <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> Message-ID:
> >> <3621DB29C10C214F8D7445C338C5C5F9D913B9 at 1maw01e.1maw.usmc.mil>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain
> >>
> >> I've been following this thread and here's what I can throw in the mix:
> >>
> >> Gray cast iron is 94% pure iron and varying portions of carbon,
> >> manganese,
> >> phosphorus, silicon and sulfur. Engine blocks, pulleys, and pump
bodies
> >> use
> >> this. A torch test will show a heavy tough film that forms on the
> >> surface
> >> as it melts. Spark test will reveal a small volume of dull red sparks
> >> that
> >> follows a straight line will form close to the wheel. These break up
> >> into
> >> fine, repeated spurts, which change to straw color.
> >>
> >> White cast iron is produced by casting against metal chills. This
causes
> >> the free carbon in the gray cast iron to combine with the iron.
> >> Recommend
> >> NOT to be welded. It is very hard and brittle.
> >>
> >> Malleable cast iron. Created by heating white cast iron to about 1,659
> >> deg
> >> F and holding it here for several hours or even days and cooling it
> >> slowly.
> >> Can be bent without breaking and it will withstand shock. Hard wearing
> >> hand
> >> tools, pipe fittings and automotive parts are usually made with this.
> >> Spark
> >> testing will show the outer bright layer gives bright sparks like
steel.
> >> When the interior is reached the sparks quickly change to dull read
color
> >> near the wheel. A little longer spark than that from gray cast.
> >>
> >> I was taught that the big problem with welding cast is the expansion.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >>
_______________________________________________http://mailman.qth.net/mailma
n/listinfo/theforge
> >> theforge mail list group photo site is
> >> http://www.photoaccess.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> End of TheForge Digest, Vol 23, Issue 9
> >> ***************************************
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> >
_______________________________________________http://mailman.qth.net/mailma
n/listinfo/theforge
> > theforge mail list group photo site is
> > http://www.photoaccess.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > End of TheForge Digest, Vol 23, Issue 10
> > ****************************************
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
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