[TheForge] welding cast iron
Ray Clontz
rayclontz at bellsouth.net
Fri Dec 9 19:28:40 EST 2005
I have never done it, but some old time welders I know say they weld cast
iron using cast piston rings for the filler rod-might be worth a
try-probably get all the
filler rod free from a engine rebuilder
(hot rodder)
----- Original Message -----
From: <theforge-request at mailman.qth.net>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 4:03 PM
Subject: TheForge Digest, Vol 23, Issue 10
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. RE: Welding cast iron (Washington, Aubrey O.)
> 2. RE: Tire power hammer/YAK long (Daniel Kretchmar)
> 3. RE: Welding cast iron (Washington, Aubrey O.)
> 4. Re: TheForge Digest, Vol 23, Issue 9 (Ray Clontz)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 11:22:30 -0600
> From: "Washington, Aubrey O." <awashington at ou.edu>
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID:
> <2E392E1E4AF06D46B1720012FF4E207001B5DC61 at XMAIL1.sooner.net.ou.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Todd, I hope we get some snow. It sure has been dry around here! But, so
> far the sky is clear here in Norman. How does it look over your
> direction.
>
> Bruce, thanks for the link on cast iron welding. Based on what they say,
> it looks like brazing may be my best bet. I have done very little
> brazing, so I could use some input. Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
>
> 1. Clean the area around the break as well as I can of 90 years of
> grease;
> 2. File a V groove on both sides, leaving a little of the original in the
> middle to index the pieces;
> 3. Clamp or wire the two pieces in position to a convenient length of bar
> stock;
> 4. Heat the whole set-up to 900* or so in the forge; (Why do they say
> not to use propane?)
> 5. Braze the joint using the O/A torch; probably in several passes,
> alternating sides.
>
> Here are a few questions I have (so far):
> 1. What kind of brazing rod should I use? The flux coated kind you get
> at the hardware store? Bare rod dipped in flux?
> 2. If I use bare rod, what kind of flux should I dip it in?
> 3. Do I put flux on the ends of the broken piece, or just on the rod?
> 4. How do I tell when I get the preheat to 900*?
>
> I'm sure I'll have more questions later.
>
> Aubrey
> 18 degrees but no snow in Norman
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 11:31:39 -0600
> From: Daniel Kretchmar <dan at irontreeworks.com>
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
> To: Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID: <1133976699.43971c7b09a7a at vhost1.itasca.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Greetings,
> I built one of those tire hammer based on the pictures on the anvilfire
> JYH
> site. Its called the North Carolina JYH by Steve Barringer of B2 Design,
> Ltd.
> Mine is at the following URL
>
> http://www.irontreeworks.com/the_shop.htm
>
> I built mine for about $700 and that includes about $300 of mistakes that
> I
> wouldn't make a 2nd time. I could do it again for about $500 without
> "too"
> much of scounging. Mine is simpler that the one on the anvilfire page and
> alot
> of it was trial and error until it worked. I also know that I will come
> to
> regret the lack of grease fittings on mine. I will have to replace the
> shaft
> the spring is attached to and add a grease fitting when I do a refit, but
> all
> that aside, without knowing anything about powerhammers, it was easy to
> learn
> to use and it hits hard (my ram is 45 lbs + the dies. I have replaced the
> shock
> absorber inte the picture with a custom leaf spring ($75) and my anvil is
> 6x6x(3/4)" thick wall tube. YES it is HOLLOW! The back support is 6x8 3/3
> inch
> wall tubing filled with scrap steel and concrete!!! It walked a bit at
> first
> until I filled the anvil with sand and welded it shut. I have two pins
> welded
> to the base that stick into the floor to stop the walking but it is not
> bolted
> down and it doesn't rock even at full speed (about 160 beats per minute)
>
> On the other hand, I found a 50# Little Giant almost two years ago that I
> am in
> the process of refurbishing and I still don't have that working :) I
> wouldn't
> even be able fix the thing at all, if Pete Stanitis hadn't had class at
> his
> place about rebuilding them last summer. The little giant gets it's own
> floor
> and room addition.....
>
> Daniel Kretchmar
> www.irontreeworks.com
> Traditional Woodworking and Blacksmithing
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 11:42:45 -0600
> From: "Washington, Aubrey O." <awashington at ou.edu>
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID:
> <2E392E1E4AF06D46B1720012FF4E207001B5DC62 at XMAIL1.sooner.net.ou.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Tod,
>
> I liked your suggestion of forging a replacement part for the post drill
> and then also attempting a repair on the broken part. That way I'll
> double my chances of having a working drill. From a purely historical
> perspective, I like the idea of keeping the original part with the drill,
> even if it has been repaired several times. But I don't have a problem
> with using a replacement part on a daily basis while saving the original
> in a safe place.
>
> Aubrey
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 16:00:04 -0500
> From: "Ray Clontz" <rayclontz at bellsouth.net>
> Subject: [TheForge] Re: TheForge Digest, Vol 23, Issue 9
> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID: <000701c5fb71$32bd9a50$0505a8c0 at CLONTZXP>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> If you want to know the inventor of the power hammer-go to
> anvilfire -power
> hammer page -user built hammers- NC
> green machine - designed by Ray Clontz
> from Charlotte NC. I gave Clay permission to do the builds like he was
> doing
> the threadle hammers . The :tire"
> hammer is a great machine for somebody that only needs a 50 # hammer and
> a
> lage hammer would be "overkill " for their shop and possibly their budget.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <theforge-request at mailman.qth.net>
> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 11:14 AM
> Subject: TheForge Digest, Vol 23, Issue 9
>
>
>> Send TheForge mailing list submissions to
>> theforge at mailman.qth.net
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>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
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>>
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>> 1. Re: Tire power hammer/YAK long (Rick)
>> 2. RE: Tire power hammer/YAK long (Grover Richardson)
>> 3. Re: Welding cast iron (John Husvar)
>> 4. RE: Welding cast iron (Washington, Aubrey O.)
>> 5. RE: Welding cast iron (Tod Estes)
>> 6. Re: Welding cast iron (Bruce Freeman)
>> 7. RE: Welding cast iron (Bruce Freeman)
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 06:20:59 -0600
>> From: "Rick" <rick at smokyforge.com>
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
>> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Message-ID: <002d01c5fb28$aea15740$6701a8c0 at Rickhome>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
>> reply-type=original
>>
>> Hello Roger -
>>
>> I think we should try to get Clay to do this for UMBA. I would like
>> to
>> have a power hammer and DON'T like the noise of an air compressor running
>> all the time. Also, I have heard of these hammers and their cood
>> control-ability. Maybe we can get something going, what do you think?
>>
>> Rick Crawford at Rafter Lazy C
>> Home of Smoky Forge and Lem the Wonder Mule
>> In the middle of Northern Illinois
>>
>> http://www.smokyforge.com
>> rick at smokyforge.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Roger R Degner" <rog781 at means.net>
>> To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Cc: <blacksmiths at yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 5:45 PM
>> Subject: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
>>
>>
>>>I have returned home from the Alabama Forge Council conference where I
>>> got the opportunity to watch Clay Spencer run a shop made #50 mechanical
>>> hammer made with a emergency spare tire as the clutch. He gave the name
>>> of the inventor several times but I don't remember it at the moment.
>>>
>>> I thought this hammer was the BEST running mechanical trip hammer I ever
>>> watched work.
>>> It always stopped with the hammer in the up position
>>> He was using it with flat dies and showed many different types of top
>>> tooling mainly spring swages/fuller but some hand held top tooling also.
>>> When just using the dies it did a very good job of drawing
>>>
>>> clip
>>>
>>> I taped the demonstration and am converting it to DVD-R. It will
>>> eventually be avalible from the UMBA library for $7 shipped. A full
>>> list of videos are at www.umbaonline.org
>>>
>>> The AFC group was very nice to visit. They have two buildings for the
>>> demos equipped with a little giant, a treadle hammer, forging press, one
>>> of Tom Clarks Air Hammers vises tables forges and all the tooling a
>>> typical shop could every want other than a cone mandrel.
>>> The weather was a drastic change on the way home. It was at least 50s
>>> there and when I awoke at a rest stop at 4am on the way home to
>>> Minnesota it was -9. It was 1150 miles one way but well worth the trip.
>>> They say next years conference will be the weekend after labor day in
>>> September so mark your calendars.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Roger R Degner
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.10/190 - Release Date:
>> 12/1/2005
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 08:11:20 -0500
>> From: "Grover Richardson" <grover.richardson at gtri.gatech.edu>
>> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
>> To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Message-ID: <003e01c5fb2f$b8445d90$2c0a670a at atasad.ccrf>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>>
>> Put the compressor out back in another building/area. That's what Dan
>> Tull
>> does<G>. Never hear the compressor. Note though, for my side work, it's
>> about 100' from the compressor to the work area. Have to put a water
>> separator at the work location also. Georgia, sometimes humidity gets
>> dense
>> enough you need a water pump<G>.
>>
>>>*>-----Original Message-----
>>>*>From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>>>*>[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick
>>>*>Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 7:21 AM
>>>*>To: Sponsored by ABANA
>>>*>Subject: Re: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
>>>*>
>>>*>
>>>*>Hello Roger -
>>>*>
>>>*> I think we should try to get Clay to do this for UMBA.
>>>*>I would like to
>>>*>have a power hammer and DON'T like the noise of an air
>>>*>compressor running
>>>*>all the time. Also, I have heard of these hammers and their cood
>>>*>control-ability. Maybe we can get something going, what do
>>>*>you think?
>>>*>
>>>*>Rick Crawford at Rafter Lazy C
>>>*> Home of Smoky Forge and Lem the Wonder Mule
>>>*> In the middle of Northern Illinois
>>>*>
>>>*> http://www.smokyforge.com
>>>*> rick at smokyforge.com
>>>*>
>>>*>
>>>*>
>>>*>----- Original Message -----
>>>*>From: "Roger R Degner" <rog781 at means.net>
>>>*>To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>>*>Cc: <blacksmiths at yahoogroups.com>
>>>*>Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 5:45 PM
>>>*>Subject: [TheForge] Tire power hammer/YAK long
>>>*>
>>>*>
>>>*>>I have returned home from the Alabama Forge Council
>>>*>conference where I
>>>*>>got the opportunity to watch Clay Spencer run a shop made #50
>>>*>>mechanical hammer made with a emergency spare tire as the
>>>*>clutch. He
>>>*>>gave the name of the inventor several times but I don't
>>>*>remember it at
>>>*>>the moment.
>>>*>>
>>>*>> I thought this hammer was the BEST running mechanical trip
>>>*>hammer I
>>>*>> ever watched work. It always stopped with the hammer in the up
>>>*>> position He was using it with flat dies and showed many different
>>>*>> types of top tooling mainly spring swages/fuller but some
>>>*>hand held
>>>*>> top tooling also. When just using the dies it did a very
>>>*>good job of
>>>*>> drawing
>>>*>>
>>>*>> clip
>>>*>>
>>>*>> I taped the demonstration and am converting it to DVD-R. It will
>>>*>> eventually be avalible from the UMBA library for $7
>>>*>shipped. A full
>>>*>> list of videos are at www.umbaonline.org
>>>*>>
>>>*>> The AFC group was very nice to visit. They have two
>>>*>buildings for the
>>>*>> demos equipped with a little giant, a treadle hammer,
>>>*>forging press,
>>>*>> one of Tom Clarks Air Hammers vises tables forges and all
>>>*>the tooling
>>>*>> a typical shop could every want other than a cone mandrel.
>>>*>The weather
>>>*>> was a drastic change on the way home. It was at least 50s
>>>*>there and
>>>*>> when I awoke at a rest stop at 4am on the way home to
>>>*>Minnesota it was
>>>*>> -9. It was 1150 miles one way but well worth the trip.
>>>*>They say next
>>>*>> years conference will be the weekend after labor day in
>>>*>September so
>>>*>> mark your calendars.
>>>*>>
>>>*>>
>>>*>>
>>>*>> Roger R Degner
>>>*>
>>>*>
>>>*>
>>>*>--
>>>*>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>>>*>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>>>*>Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.10/190 - Release
>>>*>Date: 12/1/2005
>>>*>
>>>*>_______________________________________________
>>>*>Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
>>>*>>*>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
>>>*>theforge
>>>*>mail list group photo site is http://www.photoaccess.com
>>>*>Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
>>>*>password: anvil
>>>*>___________
>>>*>
>>>*>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 08:50:28 -0500
>> From: John Husvar <jhusvar at sbcglobal.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
>> To: Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Message-ID: <5974CB35-E2CF-43A4-836A-8D4D2B82BD7D at sbcglobal.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
>>
>>
>> On Dec 6, 2005, at 2:04 PM, Bruce Freeman wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> But graphite would burn off less readily, and more would be exposed
>>> as you melted the mother metal.
>>
>> So that's what the correct name of that stuff is, Mother Metal! I
>> usually add a suffix on the first word. Maybe it gets insulted and
>> that's why I can't weld it worth a darn! :)
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 09:40:13 -0600
>> From: "Washington, Aubrey O." <awashington at ou.edu>
>> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
>> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Message-ID:
>> <2E392E1E4AF06D46B1720012FF4E207001B5DC60 at XMAIL1.sooner.net.ou.edu>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>
>> As long as we are talking about welding cast iron, I have a question.
>> Recently I bought an Acme post drill that looks exactly like one in the
>> 1915 Sears catalog; the one for $7.10 at
>> http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/drilling/postdril.htm. After cleaning
>> off 90 years of ossified grease and dirt and oiling it up, the drill
>> worked great! I was able to drill a 3/4" hole in 1/8" plate in a couple
>> of minutes. I was so happy I began gleefully drilling holes in
>> everything
>> I could find. Then came the problem; I broke my new toy.
>>
>> The small wheel at the top advances the down-feed of the spindle by means
>> of a pivot arm that works against the eccentric hub of the flywheel. I
>> broke the pivot arm by continuing to crank after the spindle reached its
>> maximum extension. In my feeble defense, it broke at or near a previous
>> repair.
>>
>> Now here are my questions. Is this arm likely to be cast iron? It looks
>> like it might be because the angular shape of it looks like it was
>> designed to release from a mold. The interior of the break looks grey
>> and
>> grainy. From this thread I take it the repair could be done by arc
>> welding with nickel rod, brazing, or gas welding with iron. Bernie
>> points
>> out that expansion is often a big problem in welding cast. But that
>> should not be much of an issue with this part since it is small and there
>> is no restriction on expansion in the length of the arm. It would also
>> be
>> easy to pre and post heat. BTW, if I decide to weld it, I will find
>> someone else to do it since I'm a lousy welder.
>>
>> Is any repair likely to be strong enough for the strain put on this part?
>> Would I be better off just forging a new arm out of mild or medium carbon
>> steel?
>>
>> Aubrey Washington
>> Saltfork Craftsmen ABA, ABANA
>> Rock Creek Forge
>> Norman, OK
>>
>>
>> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 16:26:20 +0900
>> From: Bisnette SSgt Bernie R <BisnetteBR at 1maw.usmc.mil>
>> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
>> To: "'blacksmith at atlasok.com'" <blacksmith at atlasok.com>,
>> 'Sponsored
>> by
>> ABANA' <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Message-ID:
>> <3621DB29C10C214F8D7445C338C5C5F9D913B9 at 1maw01e.1maw.usmc.mil>
>> Content-Type: text/plain
>>
>> I've been following this thread and here's what I can throw in the mix:
>>
>> Gray cast iron is 94% pure iron and varying portions of carbon,
>> manganese,
>> phosphorus, silicon and sulfur. Engine blocks, pulleys, and pump bodies
>> use
>> this. A torch test will show a heavy tough film that forms on the
>> surface
>> as it melts. Spark test will reveal a small volume of dull red sparks
>> that
>> follows a straight line will form close to the wheel. These break up
>> into
>> fine, repeated spurts, which change to straw color.
>>
>> White cast iron is produced by casting against metal chills. This causes
>> the free carbon in the gray cast iron to combine with the iron.
>> Recommend
>> NOT to be welded. It is very hard and brittle.
>>
>> Malleable cast iron. Created by heating white cast iron to about 1,659
>> deg
>> F and holding it here for several hours or even days and cooling it
>> slowly.
>> Can be bent without breaking and it will withstand shock. Hard wearing
>> hand
>> tools, pipe fittings and automotive parts are usually made with this.
>> Spark
>> testing will show the outer bright layer gives bright sparks like steel.
>> When the interior is reached the sparks quickly change to dull read color
>> near the wheel. A little longer spark than that from gray cast.
>>
>> I was taught that the big problem with welding cast is the expansion.
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 09:53:05 -0600 (CST)
>> From: "Tod Estes" <blacksmith at atlasok.com>
>> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
>> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Message-ID: <57285.70.184.20.213.1133970785.squirrel at mail.atlasok.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
>>
>> Comments below
>>
>>> As long as we are talking about welding cast iron, I have a question.
>>> Recently I bought an Acme post drill that looks exactly like one in the
>>> 1915 Sears catalog; the one for $7.10 at
>>> http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/drilling/postdril.htm. After cleaning
>>> off 90 years of ossified grease and dirt and oiling it up, the drill
>>> worked great! I was able to drill a 3/4" hole in 1/8" plate in a couple
>>> of minutes. I was so happy I began gleefully drilling holes in
>>> everything
>>> I could find. Then came the problem; I broke my new toy.
>>>
>>> The small wheel at the top advances the down-feed of the spindle by
>>> means
>>> of a pivot arm that works against the eccentric hub of the flywheel. I
>>> broke the pivot arm by continuing to crank after the spindle reached its
>>> maximum extension. In my feeble defense, it broke at or near a previous
>>> repair.
>>>
>>> Now here are my questions. Is this arm likely to be cast iron? It
>>> looks
>>> like it might be because the angular shape of it looks like it was
>>> designed to release from a mold. The interior of the break looks grey
>>> and
>>> grainy. From this thread I take it the repair could be done by arc
>>> welding with nickel rod, brazing, or gas welding with iron. Bernie
>>> points
>>> out that expansion is often a big problem in welding cast. But that
>>> should not be much of an issue with this part since it is small and
>>> there
>>> is no restriction on expansion in the length of the arm. It would also
>>> be
>>> easy to pre and post heat. BTW, if I decide to weld it, I will find
>>> someone else to do it since I'm a lousy welder.
>>>
>>> Is any repair likely to be strong enough for the strain put on this
>>> part?
>>> Would I be better off just forging a new arm out of mild or medium
>>> carbon
>>> steel?
>>>
>>> Aubrey Washington
>>> Saltfork Craftsmen ABA, ABANA
>>> Rock Creek Forge
>>> Norman, OK
>> Hi Aubrey, think we will get snow today?
>>
>> Since it is such a small part and you think that you can forge one to
>> replace it then you are not at a loss. Give welding it a try. With a
>> small
>> part you can easily preheat then insulate to very slow cooling. If that
>> fails then forge a new one. Or mebe forge the new one first then try
>> welding the old one so you have a spare for the next time it breaks. I
>> have an old post drill too lots of fun to play with but I get too
>> impatinent and end up binding it too often.
>>
>> Tod Estes
>> Oologah Smithy
>> Oologah,Oklahoma. (Home of Will Rogers.)
>> Saltfork Craftsmen ABA, ABANA
>> Time enough for sleep in the grave.
>>
>> "Prometheus: I took from man expectancy of death.
>> Chorus: What medicine found'st thou for this
>> malady?
>> Prometheus: I planted blind hope in the heart of
>> him.
>> Chorus: A mighty boon thou gavest there to man.
>> Prometheus: Moreover, I conferred the gift of fire
>> Chorus: And have frail mortals now the flame-
>> bright fire.
>> Prometheus: yes, and shall master many arts
>> thereby."
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 11:03:44 -0500
>> From: "Bruce Freeman" <FREEMAB at pt.fdah.com>
>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
>> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Message-ID: <s396c1a3.013 at gv01a67m.gv.us.pri.wyeth.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>>
>> Of COURSE that's the correct name. Did you think I'd lead you astray?
>>
>> But be careful how you pronounce "mother"!
>>
>> Bruce
>> NJ
>>
>>>>> jhusvar at sbcglobal.net 12/7/2005 8:50:28 AM >>>
>>
>> On Dec 6, 2005, at 2:04 PM, Bruce Freeman wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> But graphite would burn off less readily, and more would be exposed
>>> as you melted the mother metal.
>>
>> So that's what the correct name of that stuff is, Mother Metal! I
>> usually add a suffix on the first word. Maybe it gets insulted and
>> that's why I can't weld it worth a darn! :)
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
>> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
>> theforge mail list group photo site is
>> http://www.photoaccess.com
>> Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
>> password: anvil
>> ___________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 7
>> Date: Wed, 07 Dec 2005 11:11:54 -0500
>> From: "Bruce Freeman" <FREEMAB at pt.fdah.com>
>> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
>> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Message-ID: <s396c38b.010 at gv01a67m.gv.us.pri.wyeth.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>>
>> I stumbled on this:
>> http://www.locknstitch.com/CastIronWelding.htm
>>
>> Bruce
>> NJ
>>
>>>>> awashington at ou.edu 12/7/2005 10:40:13 AM >>>
>> As long as we are talking about welding cast iron, I have a question.
>> Recently I bought an Acme post drill that looks exactly like one in the
>> 1915 Sears catalog; the one for $7.10 at
>> http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/drilling/postdril.htm. After cleaning
>> off 90 years of ossified grease and dirt and oiling it up, the drill
>> worked great! I was able to drill a 3/4" hole in 1/8" plate in a couple
>> of minutes. I was so happy I began gleefully drilling holes in
>> everything
>> I could find. Then came the problem; I broke my new toy.
>>
>> The small wheel at the top advances the down-feed of the spindle by means
>> of a pivot arm that works against the eccentric hub of the flywheel. I
>> broke the pivot arm by continuing to crank after the spindle reached its
>> maximum extension. In my feeble defense, it broke at or near a previous
>> repair.
>>
>> Now here are my questions. Is this arm likely to be cast iron? It looks
>> like it might be because the angular shape of it looks like it was
>> designed to release from a mold. The interior of the break looks grey
>> and
>> grainy. From this thread I take it the repair could be done by arc
>> welding with nickel rod, brazing, or gas welding with iron. Bernie
>> points
>> out that expansion is often a big problem in welding cast. But that
>> should not be much of an issue with this part since it is small and there
>> is no restriction on expansion in the length of the arm. It would also
>> be
>> easy to pre and post heat. BTW, if I decide to weld it, I will find
>> someone else to do it since I'm a lousy welder.
>>
>> Is any repair likely to be strong enough for the strain put on this part?
>> Would I be better off just forging a new arm out of mild or medium carbon
>> steel?
>>
>> Aubrey Washington
>> Saltfork Craftsmen ABA, ABANA
>> Rock Creek Forge
>> Norman, OK
>>
>>
>> Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2005 16:26:20 +0900
>> From: Bisnette SSgt Bernie R <BisnetteBR at 1maw.usmc.mil>
>> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
>> To: "'blacksmith at atlasok.com'" <blacksmith at atlasok.com>,
>> 'Sponsored
>> by
>> ABANA' <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>> Message-ID:
>> <3621DB29C10C214F8D7445C338C5C5F9D913B9 at 1maw01e.1maw.usmc.mil>
>> Content-Type: text/plain
>>
>> I've been following this thread and here's what I can throw in the mix:
>>
>> Gray cast iron is 94% pure iron and varying portions of carbon,
>> manganese,
>> phosphorus, silicon and sulfur. Engine blocks, pulleys, and pump bodies
>> use
>> this. A torch test will show a heavy tough film that forms on the
>> surface
>> as it melts. Spark test will reveal a small volume of dull red sparks
>> that
>> follows a straight line will form close to the wheel. These break up
>> into
>> fine, repeated spurts, which change to straw color.
>>
>> White cast iron is produced by casting against metal chills. This causes
>> the free carbon in the gray cast iron to combine with the iron.
>> Recommend
>> NOT to be welded. It is very hard and brittle.
>>
>> Malleable cast iron. Created by heating white cast iron to about 1,659
>> deg
>> F and holding it here for several hours or even days and cooling it
>> slowly.
>> Can be bent without breaking and it will withstand shock. Hard wearing
>> hand
>> tools, pipe fittings and automotive parts are usually made with this.
>> Spark
>> testing will show the outer bright layer gives bright sparks like steel.
>> When the interior is reached the sparks quickly change to dull read color
>> near the wheel. A little longer spark than that from gray cast.
>>
>> I was taught that the big problem with welding cast is the expansion.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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