[TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast

[Woolley]

To all,

Looks good.  High quality, low cost is always good.  I've only used SMAW 
with nickel rod for cast repair.  Plus it will give me a reason to practice 
my gas welding.(yeah right, like I'll do if I don't absolutely have to) 
Thanks.

Regards,
Bill Woolley


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bruce Freeman" <FREEMAB at pt.fdah.com>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast


Maybe it's something like this?:
http://www.jwharris.com/welref/techguide/alloy_for_cast_iron/torch_weld/

Bruce
NJ

>>> wjec at verizon.net 12/9/2005 10:08:44 AM >>>
Jon,

I'd like to know exactly what that rod is, anyone know?

Regards,
Bill Woolley


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jonathan Nedbor" <jonned at hvc.rr.com>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 9:47 AM
Subject: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast


> Thanks for all the leads on the brooms. Appreciate it .......
>
> As for welding cast iron, after I read the info on the "metal stiching"
> website I'm amazed that I was ever able to weld cast iron successfully. I
> have avoided using the nickel arc rod, as I find it looks terrible and is
> a different color (which matters for some things).
>
> I don't know the name of the rod I use - someone out there will probably
> know - it is about 1/4" square and looks like cast iron ie. "pebbly"
> surface and mold marks. It is even brittle like cast. This stuff flows
> great with TIG or torch. I have built up, modeled, broken/missing parts
> with it, joined large pieces, etc. I even used it for an antique cast
> pedestrian gate that had been badly broken in a attempted robbery.
>
> I have preheated and not preheated my repairs with success. I recommend
> the preheat - till the piece glows dull orange - and welding while hot,
> stopping to reheat if necessary. It is important to "V" out the weld area
> to get good penetration and as Ralph mentioned to leave a little of the
> original mating surfaces to "key" the positioning.
>
>
> I have found that there have been some things that I could not
> successfully weld, I think that the items were exposed to extended periods
> of heat in their lifetime, such as some old cast andirons and engine
> parts - the weld area seems to keep "running" away, the liquid area keeps
> receding.
>
> One question I have, someone mentioned that the preheat should use diesel
> or nat. gas, not propane? I have used a large Johnson propane forge and my
> coal fire for my preheating with no problems.
>
> Got a foot of snow outside and still coming down! Do I go skiing or stay
> home and be responsible and work - tough choice!
>
> Jon Nedbor
>
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