[TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast

[JOHN CHOBRDA]

It's cast iron rod, it is made for gas welding cast iron. You can buy it
from any welding supplier that's been around for a few years, I buy it from
Kennedy welding in Trenton NJ.

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Freeman
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 10:44 AM
To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast

Maybe it's something like this?:
http://www.jwharris.com/welref/techguide/alloy_for_cast_iron/torch_weld/

Bruce
NJ

>>> wjec at verizon.net 12/9/2005 10:08:44 AM >>>
Jon,

I'd like to know exactly what that rod is, anyone know?

Regards,
Bill Woolley


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jonathan Nedbor" <jonned at hvc.rr.com>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 9:47 AM
Subject: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast


> Thanks for all the leads on the brooms. Appreciate it .......
>
> As for welding cast iron, after I read the info on the "metal stiching" 
> website I'm amazed that I was ever able to weld cast iron successfully. I 
> have avoided using the nickel arc rod, as I find it looks terrible and is 
> a different color (which matters for some things).
>
> I don't know the name of the rod I use - someone out there will probably 
> know - it is about 1/4" square and looks like cast iron ie. "pebbly" 
> surface and mold marks. It is even brittle like cast. This stuff flows 
> great with TIG or torch. I have built up, modeled, broken/missing parts 
> with it, joined large pieces, etc. I even used it for an antique cast 
> pedestrian gate that had been badly broken in a attempted robbery.
>
> I have preheated and not preheated my repairs with success. I recommend 
> the preheat - till the piece glows dull orange - and welding while hot, 
> stopping to reheat if necessary. It is important to "V" out the weld area 
> to get good penetration and as Ralph mentioned to leave a little of the 
> original mating surfaces to "key" the positioning.
>
>
> I have found that there have been some things that I could not 
> successfully weld, I think that the items were exposed to extended periods

> of heat in their lifetime, such as some old cast andirons and engine 
> parts - the weld area seems to keep "running" away, the liquid area keeps 
> receding.
>
> One question I have, someone mentioned that the preheat should use diesel 
> or nat. gas, not propane? I have used a large Johnson propane forge and my

> coal fire for my preheating with no problems.
>
> Got a foot of snow outside and still coming down! Do I go skiing or stay 
> home and be responsible and work - tough choice!
>
> Jon Nedbor
>
> _______________________________________________
> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge 
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com 
> Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com 
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
> 

_______________________________________________
Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge 
theforge mail list group photo site is
http://www.photoaccess.com 
Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com 
password:  anvil
___________



_______________________________________________
Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
theforge mail list group photo site is
http://www.photoaccess.com
Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
password:  anvil
___________