[TheForge] oil finish

[Ralph Sproul]

Ooops, that was supposed to read Polymeritic action.......  If that's
spelled right?

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] oil finish


> Hi Larry, I've had some similar problems with plain or mixed linseed
> finishes in the past.
>
> Adding Japan drier to the mix will help the slow poermaritic action that
is
> SUPPOSED to occur with BOILED Linseed Oil ................but you can see
> the key word is BOILED!   Some of these process plants use the osmosis
> machines to "boil down" the oils (like boiling sap for sugaring) and it
> doesn't leave the oil so it will dry well is my findings.   I purchase the
> true boiled linseed oils (which is usually twice the price of the other
> cheaper versions and it works well for drying.
>
> Of course the temperature is a consideration in the winter months - three
> day drying times can be expected - where on a sunny summer day with dry
air
> and no humidity you can see results in half the time or less.
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 9:18 PM
> Subject: [TheForge] oil finish
>
>
> > I have a piece I made using an oil finish that won't dry past the tacky
> > stage. I used the same ingredients about 6 months before and mixed them
> the
> > same way and had no problem. This piece won't dry it's been over two
> > months. Can linseed oil, turpentine or drier go bad? Anyone else have
this
> > problem? Solutions?
> > Thanks
> > L Brown
> >
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