[TheForge] oil finish

[Ralph Sproul]

Hi Larry, I've had some similar problems with plain or mixed linseed
finishes in the past.

Adding Japan drier to the mix will help the slow poermaritic action that is
SUPPOSED to occur with BOILED Linseed Oil ................but you can see
the key word is BOILED!   Some of these process plants use the osmosis
machines to "boil down" the oils (like boiling sap for sugaring) and it
doesn't leave the oil so it will dry well is my findings.   I purchase the
true boiled linseed oils (which is usually twice the price of the other
cheaper versions and it works well for drying.

Of course the temperature is a consideration in the winter months - three
day drying times can be expected - where on a sunny summer day with dry air
and no humidity you can see results in half the time or less.

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 9:18 PM
Subject: [TheForge] oil finish


> I have a piece I made using an oil finish that won't dry past the tacky
> stage. I used the same ingredients about 6 months before and mixed them
the
> same way and had no problem. This piece won't dry it's been over two
> months. Can linseed oil, turpentine or drier go bad? Anyone else have this
> problem? Solutions?
> Thanks
> L Brown
>
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