[TheForge] Welding Cast Iron

[Justin Fellenz]

I've had some luck with gas welding. The high nickel rods work well but
piston rings work ok too. Flux is crucial as is LOTS of preheat. The
advantage of gas is the diffuse heat--otherwise you get a narrow heat
affected zone and the piece cracks around the no-longer-ductile iron in
a little while. As often as not I find (welding old-car manifolds,
mostly) the metal is so degraded or not good in the first place you
can't weld it worth beans. Maybe a better welder than me, but I get
something pretty that lasts maybe 20% of the time, something that works
another 20, and junk the rest.

JRF


--- magichammer <dave at magichammer.net> wrote:
> Phil, be careful there fella.
> First you should not wire brush with the work support in place.
> If you look at the wheel from the end, all wire brushing or polishing
> 
> should
> contact the wheel between 9 o'clock and 6 o'clock on the wheel.
> 
> Second, if it was mine I would just mig the support it with regular 
> steel mig wire,
> or fabricate a new one from scrap steel.
> 
> good luck and be careful
> dave m
> 
> Phil wrote:
> 
> >I was wire brushing a piece of 1" square with the
> >pedestal grinder yesterday evening.  The grinder
> >grabbed the piece of 1" square.  I don't know exactly
> >what happened (it happened too quickly), but the next
> >thing I know, there was a big BANG, and the piece of
> >1" square was laying on the floor.
> >
> >Somehow, the work support bracket got cracked.  It's
> >cast iron.  I looked around for some nickel ARC
> >welding electrodes, and I either lost them (which is
> >easy in the shop) or I had used them all.
> >
> >My question is this, is it better to ARC weld or TIG
> >weld cast iron?  And, what process do you recommend?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Phil Rosche
> >Summerville, SC
> >
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