[TheForge] tig setup

Thu Sep 9 07:16:33 EDT 2004

Hi Bill,  Most of my tig gear is ancient.  My torches are all fixed
head........what is this flex head style torch you mention?  I guess that's
one I haven't seen.  Does this mean the head twists from the gas valve on
the handle? (which mine does) or the head flexes in the plane of the handle,
which I think would be really a nice option.

On Starting: I've done lots of scratch starting with a copper plate to keep
from contaminating the tungsten as much.

Hi Freq accessories: I now have an old Miller 300 that has hi freq that
works sometimes when the points aren't corroded or in a bad mood.  Also I
have one of those hi freq starter boxes I picked up at a tailgate session at
one of our meets for $100.  It's a Lincoln and has settings for use on
transformer or solid state arc control.

Pedal vs thumb control: I have thumb controls and foot pedals for both rigs
and use the one that best suits the job. Nothing like a foot pedal when your
bench assembling and going to be there a while.  The thumb control is nice
when your out on a job like a swimming pool ladder or resteraunt sink repair
and you arent' in a standing position  to use a pedal.  I once used a tig
unit that had no form of rheostat..........it worked, but the trick was to
get the heat set right - which means getting it set for the majority of the
run and just waiting a few more seconds on the start to form the initial
puddle from cold.

Comments on gasses: I've always used Argon for the shielding gas on Tig.
The Nitrogen in a plasma cutter is for the ionized nitrogen beam which is
what a plasma arc is.  The addition of C02 into Mig gas is it makes the wire
burn hotter and dig more.  Argon is for shielding and flow out (and I
understand it is heavier than C02)...........and if you happen to have your
company buying the Helium mixes.....or you've got jobs that pay for it - I
understand the helium is good for aluminum and stainless for cleanliness of
weld.  I've never had a problem with just Argon to get by with what I do
though.

I'm not sure about every arc welder being able to be used for Tig.  I think
the old "constant potential machines" are not up to the task - where a CC
(Constant Current) machine is.  The constant potential was when they kept a
real high arc starting current on the machine and it would light the arc,
then drop to the welding current..........so it would be hard to control
that start up arc on those old machines as they could be twice the amperage
needed to run the arc.  I believe it was called open curcuit voltage and was
almost twice the actual welding voltage for first lighting the stick. (I'm
not an electrical guru - so I'm throwing out what I've heard)

I also had one of these constant potential welders years ago and hooked a
tig torch to it.........not water cooled, no foot pedal, and scratch
start........it worked, but not well by any means.

Mike Schermerhorn..........thanks for that explanation of the migration of
carbon in the stainless welds that yeild rust at the edges..........good
info.

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Woolley" <wjande at erols.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] tig setup

> Rick,
> I'm with Reis on the scratch start issue.  IMO you don't need a foot
> pedal or a cooling unit to get started.  In fact,  I prefer a flex head
> air cooled torch.  I've done alot of  tig  welding in a field and shop
> setting without needing a cooling unit.  For a novice I think you get an
> advantage with a flex head torch because you can position them better
> and they are pretty small in the first place.  High frequency start is
> for AL, you don't need it for steel.  Foot pedals are nice for AL, and
> close tolerence light gauge stuff where you need more control.  I use
> one when I weld AL and actually find it cumbersome to use.  You have to
> position the pedal and your body in relation to the work etc, just
> another thing to deal with.  My Miller inverter power source(304CC) has
> a setting for tig where you ground your electrode to the work and when
> you lift it, it starts.  It's called  Lift Arc I think, and it's a nice
> feature but I normally just scratch start with good results. Like
> anything else it just takes some practice.  Having to set your heat at
> the machine is part of the process.  If you don't initially do that you
> never get a feel for what kind of heat you need for different materials,
> thicknesses, etc.  My two cents.
>
> Regards,
> Bill Woolley
>
> RICK KORINEK wrote:
>
> >I am also looking to get into TIG welding.  Here is the set-
> >up I have been thinking about until I can purchase a bigger
> >rig:
> >
> >I would use my 250 amp stick welder and buying a water-cooled
> >torch. For the cooling unit, I thought I could use the
> >condensing coil and fan from an old window air conditioner.
> >For the pump, I would use a small coolant pump from a band
> >saw.  As for shield gas, I would need to buy a regulator and
> >use a gas solenoid controlled by a foot switch.
> >
> >The 2 down-sides I see are: the scratch start and the need to
> >crank the amp adjustment handle on top of the welder to
> >increase/decrrease the arc current.
> >
> >I would appreciate any criticism on this approach. Thanks.
> >
> >-Rick
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