[TheForge] scrap plate steel

[Justin Fellenz]

Yeah, I have used this technique fixing stretched sheet metal in
fenders and so on. Never very well, I must say, but I can see that with
practice it works. I don't know if you'd ever get the sheet dead flat
though...I've never gotten a fender mud-free, but that could be my lack
of skill. For a description of the technique from those who know it
better than I, you might look into bodywork texts, or check out the
metalshapers group at http://www.allshops.org/. Like all the metal
folks I've met, they're terrific about sharing information and might
really enjoy the problem of translating sheet techniques onto plate.

JRF 
--- debmiller at fuse.net wrote:

> Fire and water is the answer.
> 
> I have watched trained guys straighten beams, plates, etc using a
> rosebud toch and a bucket of water. Kind of like a REALLY, REALLY
> large shrinking hammer.
> 
> I am sure there are probably some process description on the
> internet.
> 
> In basic terms it was a matter of heating the opposite side and then
> cooling with water and shrinking the "dimple".
> 
> Ray
> Cincinnati
> 
> > 
> > From: "Gladish Family" <gladish at cnw.com>
> > Date: 2004/10/15 Fri AM 09:56:35 EDT
> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Subject: [TheForge] scrap plate steel
> > 
> > Is there a way to straighten steel plate?
> > 
> > I need to extend a welding table, so went to the local supplier and
> priced a
> > new 4x5, 1/2". For new steel it's ninety-some cents a pound, about
> $350...
> > But wait! There's a four by five chunk of 1/2" out back! About
> $100.
> > Unfortunately it must have had something sitting on it, because
> it's dished,
> > oh, maybe 3/8. Not that much, but the point is to have a dead flat
> surface
> > to do layout.
> > If it weren't so thick, I'd just build the frame and plug weld it,
> force it
> > to be straight, but 1/2" seems too burly.
> > Thanks for any suggestions,
> > Andy g.
> > 
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