[TheForge] Re: reducing fuel costs by improving forge efficiency.

K Donahoe flyinpig at go-concepts.com
Sat Jul 31 10:34:10 EDT 2004


Jerry,

A slight dome would help a lot to keeping the kaowool in place. Perhaps if
the blanket is too flimsy, using the board, cut to interlock with a
key"stone" would work, especially with the rammable liner.  I have no idea
how much of a curve would be prime, but I bet a slight one would do.

Kevin Donahoe
Flying Pig Forge
Morrow, OH 45152
flyinpig at go-concepts.com

    ------Original Message-----
    -From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
    -[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Jerry Frost
    -Sent: Friday, July 30, 2004 2:17 PM
    -To: Sponsored by ABANA
    -Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: reducing fuel costs by improving forge
    -efficiency.
    -
    -
    -I have no doubt you can get welding heat, I'm counting on it
    -in fact, it's
    -just a burner size / forge volume ratio equation after all.
    -This type forge
    -is basically a brick pile forge with all the advantages and few of the
    -disadvantages.
    -
    -Still, nothing wrong with trying to improve burner efficiency with a
    -recuperative system. I'm designing a heat exchanger into the
    -heat shielding
    -on my forge and it'll serve as a windbreak for the burner
    -intakes. My design
    -differs from yours in that I'm going to place the burners horizontally
    -through the jack side, sidewall. To help keep the jack, fuel
    -lines, valves,
    -gages, etc. cool I'll use a double wall sheet metal shield.
    -It's double wall
    -so the burner intakes can be inside to take advantage of air
    -preheated by
    -waste heat.
    -
    -The utility in this type forge is the adaptability so things
    -like casters,
    -shelves, helpers, built in tool racks and whatever else can be
    -added without
    -getting in the way is a plus. My problem will probably be in
    -trying NOT to
    -pack too many bells and whistles on it. <grin>
    -
    -Durability is also an issue. Seeing as these forges have the
    -capacity for
    -large, heavy items, facing the firebox with something tough is
    -essential.
    -The table is easy, the lid is another matter. Generally, tough
    -is heavy and
    -I'd like to keep the lid as light as practical.
    -
    -I've had good, REALLY good luck with double liners in propane forges.
    -Specifically a high phosphate rammable refractory inner liner and an
    -insulating outer liner of Kaowool. This works really well in
    -the pipe forge
    -but I'm not sure how well it'll work for the large flat
    -hanging structure of
    -the forge's lid. In the pipe forge the inner linner, being
    -tubular is pretty
    -much self supporting and simply beds in the Kaowool. The flat
    -lid of the
    -planned forge however, will require internal support as the
    -hard refractory
    -isn't likely to support itself on a flat span. Another factor is heat
    -expansion over a 24" x 36" flat expanse so using Kaowool for
    -the insulation
    -may not be the best bet. Not because it doesn't insulate well
    -enough but
    -because it has no tensile strength and will do nothing to help the hard
    -liner. I'm thinking of making up a batch of perlite/fireclay/cement
    -insulating refractory and tieing the hard refractory inner
    -liner through it
    -to the steel lid shell shell with SS screws. Another option
    -would be to use
    -the Kaowool hardboard (don't recall the name) and ramming the hard
    -refractory inner liner, with screws, to it. It'd be expensive
    -though and I
    -have more than a bit of the Scott in me. <grin>
    -
    -Frosty
    -------------------------
    -If it ain't forged
    -it ain't real.
    -Wrought iron is.
    -The FrostWorks
    -
    -Meadow Lakes, AK.
    -
    -
    ------ Original Message -----
    -From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
    -To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
    -Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 3:22 AM
    -Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: reducing fuel costs by improving forge
    -efficiency.
    -
    -
    ->         Frosty,
    ->         Doug claims he can place two bricks six inches apart from the
    -center
    -> of the burner and forge weld with it.  I haven't tried that
    -- but it works
    -> for him.  I guess that covers the topic of improving forge
    -> efficiency.........We move bricks......not try to suck hot air upon
    -intake.
    ->
    ->         For the size space it will heat compared to what I
    -use it for most
    -> of the time, this works well on one burner with the idle
    -incorperated when
    -> talking, phone, layout, etc.
    ->         When you need to heat six to eight items with a 20 inch
    -> heat.........then your talking heavy gas consumption(about
    -$60-100 per
    -> month) for the work I do - which is mostly railings.  I just
    -consider this
    -a
    -> cost I take in stride with the business of making iron work.
    ->
    ->         Adaptability is where these unit really shines.  One
    -burner or
    -> two.......the side walls changed from any
    -configuration..........(as long
    -as
    -> the side towards the burners is left in). I love being able
    -to work on a 4
    -> foot radius to an arch of a gazebo or rose trellis
    -arch...........just try
    -> that in a pipe forge!  The pile of bricks on a table is an
    -idea which you
    -> just can't argue with (Thanks again for those tapes Clifton).
    ->
    ->         The nice thing about those side arm burners you suggested I
    -make( a
    -> couple years ago).......is they tend to be somewhat
    -windproof.  I like
    -just
    -> puting large parts on the Acorn table and heating them with
    -a firebrick
    -> under them............that takes away the handling of heavy
    -objects while
    -> hot..........you just do it where it sits, by prying it up
    -and sliding the
    -> bricks out to use the jig table it's on.  Beats trying to
    -muscle a 3/4 x 1
    -> 1/2 flat that's 5-10 foot long for a railing section in and
    -out of the
    -forge
    -> to get the work done.  My goal was to work on large projects without
    -needing
    -> to hire help - it works.  I think it's a good stopping point
    -as compared
    -to
    -> going to huge rosebuds with high oxygen inputs required to move large
    -stock.
    -> There is a point working by yourself, that you have to stop
    -- on size of
    -> material and cost of heating.
    ->
    ->         After looking at Marc Godbout's forge site with the
    -light weight
    -> refractory in the domed top.........I can see this would be
    -a really nice
    -> option for another version of his  and my lift top sytle
    -forge. I would
    -like
    -> something more durable than the Kaowool board for a ceiling,
    -and the domed
    -> shape may have some added benefits.  I'd keep the caster
    -table I've got,
    -> allow it to still pivot, the hard brick floor for durability, and
    -insulating
    -> high temp bricks for the sides, and then put the formed lid with
    -refractory
    -> on as a top.
    ->         The caster table and jack post become really handy
    -sections of the
    -> forge as a tool rack.  The base not only allows the unit to
    -be stowed away
    -> and come out when needed, but the storage off all size
    -bricks (and broken
    -> bricks to act as diverters and heat shields) is great to aim
    -and localize
    -> heat.  The jack post has a rack to hold the reach in poker,
    -the small pick
    -> up tongs, and the larger two radius pick up tongs for moving
    -any object
    -> around or flipping them to get the heat to soak into large
    -items, and the
    -> handle on the side is where I keep the brick tongs for moving the hot
    -> bricks.  So it's a totally self contained tool, with all the
    -accessories
    -> rolling around with it - when it's needed.  I see Marc went
    -with what he
    -> had, and incorportated the ideas of rolling cabinet and
    -lifting the lid
    -with
    -> a mechanical mechanism (scissor jack) to change the firebox
    -when it's hot.
    -> When you do your clamshell (if you have a cement floor in
    -your shop, that
    -> is) - I'd keep casters, pivoting tower, and mechanical
    -lifting top on the
    -> list of priorities for your design.
    ->         This sounds like a winning combination for your
    -clamshell.  Right
    -> now I'm so loaded with work that my spare time is going to working on
    -> rebuilding the 3B I picked up last summer.  If you get a
    -chance to make up
    -> your clamshell this year, I'd love to see the results you get.  Your
    -designs
    -> have always impressed me, and led me to some of the
    -completed projects
    -I've
    -> got now.  ( I've still got that swage stand drawing I want
    -to get to some
    -> day!)
    ->
    ->         Marc and I have talked with a fellow in Rhode Island
    -who wants to
    -do
    -> a workshop on burners and gas forges later this
    -fall.......this might be a
    -> nice time to make one "experimental unit" while there are 8 - 10 guys
    -> looking to keep busy on a group participation project.
    ->         After making 9 different style (trial and error)
    -burners to get to
    -> the one's I like now.........I can see why I get all the
    -e-mails and phone
    -> calls from members of our club experimenting with which burner to run
    -with.
    -> I think a workshop and newsletter article will clear up a
    -lot of questions
    -> for the folks working on gas forges.......besides being a
    -great way to
    -spend
    -> the day with a bunch of good folks.  :-)
    ->
    -> Ralph
    ->
    ->
    -
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