[TheForge] Snarling iron (Re: Minimum Tools...) begins.)

Sat Jan 24 20:35:01 2004

Rick:  I would also add that a tapering of the bar from the fixed side out
to the business end is helpful.  I also make my snarling irons from
automotive coil spring when possible.  Heat treat:  harden in oil and temper
to deep blue...about 450-500 F.
  Grant

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Horgan" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Snarling iron (Re: Minimum Tools...) begins.)

> At 07:12 AM 1/24/2004 -0600, you wrote:
> >OK guys, time for me to show my stupidity yet again.  What the heck is a
> >snarling iron, and can someone post a picture of one on the photo access
> >page?
>
> OK Rick...  Take a 1/2 inch bar, about 18 inches long and upset both
> ends.  square one end up to fit your hardy hole tightly.You  don't want
> that end to move at all.  The other end of the bar is upset to become a
> polished hammer head for the last 3/4  of an inch, then a 90 degree bend
at
> the hammer head end.  At the hardy end take it about 4 or 5 inches above
> the anvil top, and bend 90 degrees again, so that the hammer head on the
> other end is now pointing straight up.
> Now you have a short hammer on the end of a springy bar, with the other
end
> fixed to your anvil.If you tap the bar with a hammer, the hammer end
> vibrates . Find the sweet spot to hit, and the hammer will move quite a
> lot. Listen to it hum.  Now you can put a hollow piece of work over the
> iron, set the hammer head against a dent, for example, and tap the iron
> again, and listen to it snarl.   This lets you hammer from the inside of
> places you can't even fit a hammer into. You can use it for raising
> designs, shaping, or just for taking out the dents.  I'll try to get a
> picture of mine up.
>
>
> Michael D. Horgan , [email protected]
> http://members.aol.com/lughaid/
> posting from
>   A BRAZEN FORGERY
> Blacksmithing and Metalwork
> Claremont, Ca.
>
>
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