[TheForge] Re: 2004 Resolution, Intro & Advice Needed

[Catherine Jo Morgan]

Be sure to check the archives at the alt.crafts.blacksmithing newsgroup
too. There have been some good threads there on this same topic. Also
the rec.crafts.woodworking newsgroup often has excellent information on
workshop wiring, lighting, layout etc. A lot of that is applicable to a
metalworking studio. An easy way to search these archives is at google
groups, e.g.
http://groups.google.com/groups?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=w
orkshop+layout

My own studio is 20x32, with metal roof and dirt floor. The main door is
8' wide. One corner, 8x10, is a fully insulated office with tile floor,
sheetrock walls, etc.

If I were building over again, I'd:

1) Check prevailing winds more carefully so that my ventilation system
didn't fight them. Incorporate a spraybooth into the plans even if it's
installed much later.

2) At least put in the pipes for a water system, even if I connected
them later when I had more money. (My "water system" is an insulated jug
that flows into a plastic dishplan, which gets emptied into a 5-gallon
bucket. This does work ok, along with a  portable toilet. But someday
I'll install running water and it will be harder because I didn't plan
for it originally.)

3) Plan my layout by using the flow chart system from Jim Tolpin's book,
Working at Woodworking -
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0942391675/qid=1073416358/
sr=5-1/ref=cm_lm_asin/103-8411600-5049443?v=glance. The books is worth
buying just for the part on efficient layout.

Exactly how this will work for you depends on what kind of work you want
to make, the size range, etc. You make flow charts showing the process
from raw materials coming in the door, to finished work going out the
door. Then you can lay out your space and tools and material storage for
efficiency. Over the years, this will make a big difference in pleasure
and profit.

4) Since I live in a humid climate, start from the beginning to keep
most tools in airtight toolboxes, with rust inhibiting strips and/or
silica gel containers. The rust inhibiting strips work really well.
http://www.action-electronics.com/bftools.htm I buy mine from Highland
Hardware in Atlanta.
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/subcatmfgprod.asp?0=270&1=271&2=-1

5) I'd make the "clean studio" space MUCH bigger. The 8x10' office is
big enough for a drawing board, file cabinets, and bookshelves. This was
ok for the first few years, but now it's much too small. I had to move
the office to my living space to make room for a desktop computer and
peripherals. I could use a lot more dustfree space for drying pieces I'm
painting and varnishing. And I'd love to have a spray booth for
airbrushing finished ironwork.

And it would be MUCH better to have an area always set up for
photographing work. If I could start from scratch, I'd make the clean
studio with space for photography, metal flat files, vertical slots for
matboard etc., and lots of horizontal workspace in addition to the
drawing board. Partly this is because I've evolved from 100% forged iron
to mixed media work. I need a glass studio too. But this can happen to
you too! So make plenty of clean space that you can easily keep free of
dust. (I keep a shopvac under the drawing board, with a goretex filter
in it. Also I run an air cleaner when I'm not in there working.)

6) Build a side draft forge with a 12" chimney. 


I'm sure you'll get plenty of advice on tools. If I see a need to add my
two cents, I'll do it later.

Catherine Jo Morgan
Morgan Sculpture: iron & mixed media vessels
Artist Journal Online - Hand Forged Vessels:
http://radio.weblogs.com/0120691/ 
mailto:cjmorgan@hemc.net