[TheForge] Re: forge design
Chuck Robinson
robi5515 at bellsouth.net
Wed Aug 4 15:50:39 EDT 2004
Hey Kevin,
Not quite right. I need to explain a little better.
There are many different refractory materials from the super reflecting
wools like A. P. Green Inswool That reflect heat off it's surface but don't
absorb heat well, to super hard castable rammable refractories like A. P.
Green Mizzou that are flux resistant but absorb heat like a sponge and
radiate it in all directions.
When you build a forge you need to design it for the way you work. I shoot
for a forge that will get to working temp fast (welding heat in 5 to 10
minutes or less). So I build the forge with inswool sides and top and a
floor cast with Kastolite 2600 or Mizzou.
If you want to make it more abrasion resistant cast a 1" refractory lining
surrounded by inswool or insulboard. that will reflect the castable heat
back into the forge interior. you need to make a removable casting form to
shape the castable properly. I like to use pieces of Styrofoam cut to shape,
and easily removable when the refractory is dry.
When I cast up a refractory, I mix in about a hand full of casting needles
for every 10 lbs of dry mix. If you use the needles it isn't necessary to
anchor the refractory to the skin using the screws. They are just used when
inswool is used by it self in the walls and roof.
As you install the wool cut it oversize and force it against the skin while
pushing the satenite covered screws through the holes in the skin into the
wool.
You get much better results and durability if you use 8 lb density 2600 F
wool.
The final step is to sprits the wool with water and immediately coat the
inner face with a slurry of satenite mixed with water to a consistency of
heavy cream.
As soon as you are finished, fire up the burners to cook off the water and
set the satenite.
If you use a beer keg, get one of the straight sided ones if possible. Cut
it in half around the middle. cut the opening size you want in one or both
ends, plus your burner holes. Glue or tape your forms in place and then fill
with your refractory of choice. After removing the forms, put a 2" inswool
gasket soaked in satenite on the end face of one section , and place the
other section on it . Then tack weld the barrel back together.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: "K Donahoe" <flyinpig at go-concepts.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 5:24 AM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: forge design
>
> Chuck,
>
> Let me see if I've got the process right. Take your domed ss, drill
> slightly oversized holes for your screws every 4-6 inches; fill with
> refractory to the same shape as the dome; run stainless screws through
> holes/refractory to a length about 0.5" less than the kaowool blanket
you're
> going to shove onto the screws, after you've coated them with satanite/itc
> 100. Does that sound about right?
>
> I'll have to cruise the University district after school starts for a
> stainless beer keg ;)
>
> Kevin
>
> ------Original Message-----
> -From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> -[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Chuck Robinson
> -Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 12:39 AM
> -To: Sponsored by ABANA
> -Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: forge design
> -
> -
> -Hey Ralph,
> -Yes it holds up pretty well. Any reasonable arch or dome seems
> -to work .
> -If you drill the screw holes in the shell slightly over screw
> -body diameter,
> -you can easily replace any screws that deteriorate.
> -If you knock a piece of wool off the sides or roof of the
> -forge, it can
> -easily be replaced by saturating a chunk of wool in satenite slurry
and
> -stuffing it into the gap with a pair of tongs with the gas idling.
The
> -repair takes less time than it takes me to write about it.
> -I also found that making the shell from Stainless steel not
> -only makes it
> -corrosion resistant but also makes it very easy to see areas
> -of the forge
> -that need extra insulation or repair. The vivid oxidation
> -colors don't lie.
> -
> -When I used to visit the gigantic Blacksmith shop at the
> -Yokosuka Naval Base
> -in Japan, they had about 40 diesel fired forges that ranged in
> -size from a
> -small dog house to one that would hold a 1 ton truck.
> -Most of the forges had the same basic shape- a rectangular box
> -with a arched
> -roof.
> -The front wall, with the burner located in the center, was
> -higher than the
> -opposite wall.
> -This gave the arched roof a lopsided tilt. ( I'm sure it was
> -designed that
> -way to improve flame efficiency.)
> -The sides hade large arched openings that could be made
> -smaller by stacking
> -fire brick in the openings.
> -
> -If I can find a photo I'll send it to you.
> -Chuck
> ------ Original Message -----
> -From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
> -To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> -Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2004 6:53 PM
> -Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: reducing fuel costs by improving forge
> -efficiency.
> -
> -
> -> Thanks Chuck, this is another good approach. I remember reading a
> -workshop
> -> you fellows had that you did this option of the screws..........so
it
> -holds
> -> up well ehh?
> ->
> -> Just curious if you've tried a domed lid? What radius did
> -you use......or
> -> was a just part of an arc?
> ->
> -> Ralph
> ->
> -> ----- Original Message -----
> -> From: "Chuck Robinson" <robi5515 at bellsouth.net>
> -> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> -> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 12:55 PM
> -> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: reducing fuel costs by improving forge
> -> efficiency.
> ->
> ->
> -> > Hey Ralph,
> -> > Doming the forge top works better than a flat top in both
> -castable and
> -> > inswool refractory.
> -> > I use the casting needles in the castable/ ramable
> -refractory, and S/S
> -> wall
> -> > board screws in the Inswool. I space the screws about 4 to 6
inches
> -apart
> -> > over the whole surface of the metal skin.
> -> > Make sure the screws are about 1/2" shorter than the
> -inswool thickness
> -and
> -> > coat the screws with satanite before pushing them into the
inswool.
> -> > Chuck
> -> >
> -> >
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