[TheForge] Re: forge design

Ralph Sproul brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com
Wed Aug 4 08:22:58 EDT 2004


Thanks Chuck, I appreciate the info, and would like to see a photo if you
come across it.

I scrapped out four McDonald's kitchens five years back and have a pile or
14 guage stainless in my back field.  I used to make my forge lids from the
shelving I aquired on that job, but ran out.......now being able to form
domed lids from the rest of this stuff seems a rather appealing way to
justify it being there to use.   :-)

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Robinson" <robi5515 at bellsouth.net>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: forge design


> Hey Ralph,
> Yes it holds up pretty well. Any reasonable arch or dome seems to work .
> If you drill the screw holes in the shell slightly over screw body
diameter,
> you can easily replace any screws that deteriorate.
> If you knock a piece of wool off the sides or roof  of the forge, it can
> easily be replaced by saturating a chunk of wool in satenite slurry and
> stuffing it into the gap with a pair of tongs with the gas idling. The
> repair takes less time than it takes me to write about it.
> I also found that making the shell from Stainless steel not only makes it
> corrosion resistant but also makes it very easy to see areas of the forge
> that need extra insulation or repair. The vivid oxidation colors  don't
lie.
>
> When I used to visit the gigantic Blacksmith shop at the Yokosuka Naval
Base
> in Japan, they had about 40 diesel fired forges that ranged in size from a
> small dog house  to one that would hold a 1 ton truck.
> Most of the forges had the same basic shape- a rectangular box with a
arched
> roof.
> The front wall, with the burner located in the center, was higher than the
> opposite wall.
> This gave the arched roof a lopsided tilt. ( I'm sure it was designed that
> way to improve flame efficiency.)
> The sides hade large arched openings that could be made smaller by
stacking
> fire brick in the openings.
>
> If I can find a photo I'll send it to you.
> Chuck
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2004 6:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: reducing fuel costs by improving forge
> efficiency.
>
>
> > Thanks Chuck, this is another good approach.  I remember reading a
> workshop
> > you fellows had that you did this option of the screws..........so it
> holds
> > up well ehh?
> >
> > Just curious if you've tried a domed lid?  What radius did you
use......or
> > was a just part of an arc?
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chuck Robinson" <robi5515 at bellsouth.net>
> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 12:55 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: reducing fuel costs by improving forge
> > efficiency.
> >
> >
> > > Hey Ralph,
> > > Doming the forge top works better than a flat top in both castable and
> > > inswool refractory.
> > > I use the casting needles in the castable/ ramable refractory, and S/S
> > wall
> > > board screws in the Inswool. I space the screws about 4 to 6 inches
> apart
> > > over the whole surface of the metal skin.
> > > Make sure the screws are about 1/2" shorter than the inswool thickness
> and
> > > coat the screws with satanite before pushing them into the inswool.
> > > Chuck
> > >
> > >
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