[TheForge] Welding SS

[Jerry Frost]

I've gotten a couple replies on and off list regarding the almost instant
oxidization of the chromium and it's weld killing properties. Okay, it can
be done but I don't think I want to go to the trouble of casing it in steel
or figuring out how to make a forge with an argon atmosphere, etc. Not right
now anyway. <grin>

Seeing as this was only going to be a shovel blade, maybe something a bit
easier to weld is in order?

So, what can I use that'll be flashy and forge welded without advanced
techniques and or equipment?

Thanks for the replies all.

Frosty
------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.


----- Original Message -----
From: <MRScherm@aol.com>
To: <theforge@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2003 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Welding SS


> In a message dated 9/11/2003 2:15:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> frosty@customcpu.com writes:
> I tried forge welding some SS and mild steel for a damascus
> Frostman,
> The problem with 300 series stainless is that the chrome-oxide film that
> protects it from corrosion also keeps it from wetting to the mild steel.
When you
> belt grind the surface,  it is no longer "stainless" for a short period of
> time, i.e., if exposed to a corrodent at that moment, it would corrode.
After
> exposure to air, the passive film forms on the surface and once again it
is
> stainless.  To keep the film from forming, flux it as soon as you can
following
> grinding off the surface.  Your idea of using a liquid plumbing flux is a
good
> one, and I would apply it immediately after grinding the stainless.  Flux
the
> mild steel also prior to tacking the corners, but again, prior to it
seeing
> any heat.  Another thought, the stainless that you are using has been
"cold
> worked" to a fairly high tensile in manufacture.  You might heat the
stainless to
> 1800-1900F and quench in water to anneal it before you grind the surface
off.
> Just for your information, stainless is routinely "bonded" cold to other
> metals under high rolling pressures without any flux, but it has an active
> surface, not passive when rolled.  The US Navy has a specification for
"painting
> stainless", which describes the process of removing the passive surface
and
> preparing it for painting, which is exactly what you want to do.  Regret I
dont have
> a copy of the spec.
> Good luck
> Mike Schermerhorn
>