[TheForge] make shift anvil

[theforge@mailman.qth.net]

I have to agree.  I started with an I beam.   Someone gave me a crappy 
cast iron antique anvil and I couldn't believe the difference.  My 
skills improved overnight.  Then I got a nice anvil and it really made a 
difference.   Later, I a two in thick section of fork lift time onto the 
I beam, but it still leaves a lot to be desired.  I use it now for all 
of those things that I don't want to do on my good anvils, or when I 
want to whale on something with my big sledge.   If you can't find 
anything better, you are better off with the chinese iron anvil than an 
I beam.    If you don't want to go that route, then  heres what to look 
for (my opninion).   You want something that weighs around one hundred 
pounds or so.   I needs to have a flat spot, or an area that you are 
willing to grind flat of at least six square inches for general 
blacksmithing of small items.  For bladesmithing I guess it doesn't have 
to be quite as big.  The scrap item you get should be steel, preferably 
forged.  A forged item is better than anything cast.  Sometimes you will 
see "forged" on the item, otherwise since most forged items are drop 
forged, you may see a seam or line around the part where it was squeezed 
out.  If the two sides around the seam don't meet, then it is probably 
cast.    Stuff off of old construction equipmemt is a good choice.


Charles

Ries Niemi wrote:

>
> This is one of those subjects that comes up again and again.
> Dont use an I beam- what you need in an anvil is mass, not a large 
> surface. I beams bounce and flex quite a bit- way too much cantilever.
> A much better starter anvil is any big chunk of round bar- say 4" 
> diameter and as long as you can find. Bury one end in the floor, and 
> you have a great anvil. Or mount it on a stump.
> But any relatively compact chunk of metal that weighs 100 to 200 
> pounds is going to be a much better anvil than an I beam. Dont get 
> hung up on it looking "anvil like" You can buy a bick for 15 bucks 
> from centaur or kayne that will replace a horn, so you just want a 
> rectangle or cylinder of the heaviest weight you can get. In many 
> third world countries they use sledge hammer heads, mounted up and 
> down on a stump. You cant beat on an area any bigger than the head of 
> your hammer at once- So you could get away with an anvil the same size 
> as your hammer, but you should be able to find a piece of scrap that 
> is bigger than that. Big time pro knivemakers anvils are only 5" or 6" 
> square, but 2 feet tall, solid steel.
> Then you can take your time and find a good deal on a used anvil, when 
> you are ready.
>
> ries
>
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