[TheForge] Castable Refractory

Fri May 16 14:23:01 2003

Hey Norm,
Lay the pipe on it's side.
Using a couple of long pipe clamps, clamp a piece of 2"x4" wood to the
bottom end of each end of your pipe. This is the floor casting form.
Carefully mix distilled water, a little at a time, into the dry Mizzou
refractory. A little goes a long way.
When you can form a "snow ball" in your hand toss it up and down 3 or 4
times a few inches into the air. If the ball cracks open you have it too
dry. If the ball slumps in your hand it is too wet.
When it is the right consistency trowel it in to the pipe till it is flush
with the top of the 2"x 4".
Cover with plastic and let dry for 2 days.
When dry, stand the pipe on end on a 2' square piece of ply wood with a D
shaped piece of Styrofoam glued to the plywood.
The foam should be cut about 3" under hole size  for a 1.5" wall thickness.
Center the foam in the tube with the flat side flush with the new cast floor
and fill the void with fresh castable.
use a rebar rod to tamp the refractory thoroughly  to remove any voids.
Cover with plastic and let sit for another 2 days.
If you want to anchor the refractory, drill undersize holes in the pipe wall
and screw in Stainless  1.25" long self tapping screws, before adding the
wet refractory.
After the refractory is dry you must heat cure it  to drive off the
remaining water bound up in the refractory.
Remember the refractory is like a sponge, so it takes a long time for the
forge to come up to temperature when fired up.
I prefer to cast the floor as described above and then line the walls with
inswool coated with Satenite. It is much more thermally efficient.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 11:18 PM
Subject: [TheForge] Castable Refractory


> I know this has been discussed before on theforge but I didn't pay
> enough attention.  I have an atmospheric forge that works well and is
> lined with 2" of kaowool and then covered with ITC 100.
>
> Now I want to make a forge that is lined with Mizzou castable
> refractory 3000 degree.Just got the refractory today (55 lbs for
> $27.50)  but no info with it or on the bag as far as specifications or
> applications are concerned.  I assume I just mix water with it and not
> make it too soupy--I'll just wait plenty long for it to set up.  What I'm
> wondering is:
>
> Does it help to put a short metal rods, screws, or whatever through
> the sides of the forge to help hold the lining in place once dry?
> What's the best thing to use?
>
> What's the best way to make a removable form to fit the inside of the
> forge to shape the inside opening?
>
> What are the disadvantages and advantages of using castable
> refractory as opposed to kaowool or durablanket type insulation?
>
> Does Mizzou type material make a good floor for  a forge?
>
> I plan to make the forge out of about a 10" or 12" pipe with about a
> .09 wall and form a flat place in the pipe for the bottom of the forge.
>
> Been thinking about making the thickness of the insulation
> somewhere between 1.5 and 2 inches.  Will this be adequate?
>
> Any suggestions or tips anyone has will be truly appreciated.
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Norm Larson
>
>
>
>
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