[TheForge] Portable Forge rebuild

[Dan Tull]

#1 Crack not a problem. Mines been cracked for 10 years ( w/o clay )
with no problem. Why add the weight of clay?

#2  broken wheel- different problem.
If you have a lot invested, try the brazing, or cast iron welding rod. But
it still will be out of balance.
I would set aside for spare parts and look for a usable forge.

# 3   don't waste time/energy trying to make a big flywheel. although you
look like you could handle it, by the end of the day, you might wish it were
lighter.

#4  I just sewed (sp?) a leather belt( lap joint) and it has worked fine for
10 years.  Granted, it was
one of Big Bob's old ones. 6'-6"  , 395# you might have to look around for
one long enough.

Or weld one up, light enough to carry. Or make one big enough that you
trailer or tow behind as in a Civil War calvery cassion.
Bellows, 12 v ,and  110 v all in one.

dan tull
georgia
abba, afc, S.C. psba, obg,sofa
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Best, Dianne" <dbest@hydro.mb.ca>
> I'm rebuilding a portable forge that was in a fire and I have a few
> questions:
> #1 - Cracked pan.
> The pan has a crack 3/4 of the way across the bottom. Since I am planning
on
> lining the pan with clay, I don't think the crack will be a problem. Am I
> wrong?
> #2 - Broken drive wheel
> A segment (between two spokes) fell out of the large flywheel that drives
> the blower. . Is there an easier way?
> #3 - Flywheel weight
> This is a lever-operated blower and, looking at the flywheel, which is
> relatively light, I was wondering if adding some weight would give longer
> blower action (momentum) - would this be an advantage? I could put steel
> "tire" around the flywheel and just about double its weight.
> #4 - Blower drive belt

> blower pulley. Any suggestions?
> Thanks fer yer ideas fellers!
> Calamity Jane