[TheForge] treadle hammer anvils
R.C.Mundt
[email protected]
Thu Jan 9 19:53:01 2003
I used a piece of 8"x8"x1/4" tube for my anvil, filled it w/ concrette and a
few scraps of iron, works good, I've done some pretty heavy work on it.
I built one for a friend and used a 10" pipe w/ 3/4' wall, filled w/
concrette and lots of Iron scraps. I'de guess it weighs over 100 LBS. more
than mine and I liked it better.
I'de build it heavy and figure out a way to move it.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] treadle hammer anvils
> mike,
>
> this sounds like a decent compromise. i could make an angle iron "frame"
that the anvil would just drop into. bolts to secure it to the base and the
horizontal braces. hmmmm.
>
> i also thought of bolt on wheels/tongue w/hitch that he could tip down and
put on his trailer ball. high water comes, bolt on, tip down and head for
terra haute.
>
> hi to martha.
>
> thanks.
>
> bob
>
>
>
>
>
> >bob, tweaking this idea a bit. How about
> >a bolt on solid anvil like you did for
> >me? Bolts instead of welds at the points
> >where it joins the rest of the hammer.
> >
> >If he is moving the whole thing on a
> >regular basis, what about metal casters
> >on the back, so that they would only
> >contact the floor when the whole unit
> >was tipped back?
> >
> >With the wheels and the removable anvil,
> >Martha could take it around the shop.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Bruce Freeman wrote:
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >> Maybe you could be clever and design a built-up anvil that BOLTS
together with a minimum of bolts. I'm thinking of something like an I-beam,
stood on end, with a face plate (maybe 6" sqaure of 1" steel), as the
"skeleton" of the anvil,with pieces that bolt to either side the web,
between the flanges, to add mass. The hard part would be to ensure that
these pieces make sufficiently firm contact with the face plate that their
mass makes a difference in the behavior of the anvil. You'd want is such
that tightening the bolts would tend to press the ends of these pieces
firmly against the bottom of the face plate. Angled studs might do this, or
perhaps some affair involving wedges.
> >> Bruce
> >> NJ
> >>
> >> >>> [email protected] 01/09/03 11:16AM >>>
> >> Bob,
> >>
> >> The treadle hammer (finished and kits) that Centaur sells are from
> >> Kirkpatric, I don't know about the one advertised in the hammers blow.
But
> >> the Centaur/Kirkpatric ones do not have the adjustable head height.
> >>
> >> Personally I'm a proponent of the solid or built up (i.e 4 2"x3" steel
> >> bars). Just like a regular anvil, the solid body provides more
"rebound"
> >> effect than do the tubular anvil bases. I'll admit that the solid
body is
> >> heavier than an empty tube and may make it more easily moved. But if
the
> >> tube is filled with concrete and scrap steel then there might not be so
> >> much difference.
> >>
> >> I guess in the end you get what you want. The empty tube base will
work,
> >> but may not be as good as a solid base. But if it does what you want
it
> >> to, then I suppose it's just fine.
> >>
> >> Then again, I'm not an expert in these things, just opinionated.
> >>
> >> Dave Brown
> >>
> >> At 09:14 01/09/03 -0500, you wrote:
> >> >i am building a treadle hammer for a friend. he is not sure whether to
go
> >> >with a solid anvil or a tube type. it seems that most commercially
> >> >available t hammers have tube anvils with a plate on top, centaur,
> >> >kirkpatric (the same?) and the one advertised in the hammers blow.
> >> >
> >> >are there others that can be bought?
> >> >
> >> >any opinions on the functional difference between solid or tube
anvils?
> >> >the guy i am making it for is concerned about moving it (weight). he
lives
> >> >in a flood plain and his shop has 7' of water in it some springs. he
> >> >usaully loads thing up and moves it to high ground till the water goes
down.
> >> >
> >> >bob s.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >_______________________________________________
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> >> >___________
> >>
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> >
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>
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