[TheForge] Welding 5160

[Larry and Pat Brown]

You could try a test piece with the 8018 and the 10018 by but welding rods 
to mimic the job then see if it seems to be the same scratch, drill and 
bend as the real piece in the weld areas. I find that when 5160 is hardened 
it gets pretty tough to do anything to. If it breaks again then go to the 
SS blue rods

L Brown

At 09:09 PM 8/24/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Grant and Dan,  Thanks for the responses.
>
>         I had figured the best option would be to buy or make another arm,
>the second was to repair this one.
>         We were told it was 5160 and the fellow who owned the hammer had
>some cheap drills that were pretty dull.  When I got the arms here, I found
>that a drill would "sliver" cut the arm, and a file would affect it and not
>skate.   So I assumed I had an "as forged" piece of 5160.  I figured it
>would have a certain hardness to it being it was a medium carbon steel with
>.60 points of carbon.
>
>         If it had been hardened I would have considered two options:
>     1) use stainless or a rod such as Dan mentioned with alloys to allow for
>deflection. If it broke you would be dealing with no other option but
>stainless at this point if you were trying to keep the rods equal length.
>     2) Anneal, grind bevel equal from both sides, weld with a strong tensile
>strength rod 8018 or 10018. Oil harden, temper(which I felt would be
>difficult with the gear at my shop.
<snip>