[TheForge] Stick welding question]

Sun Aug 10 07:55:00 2003

    Bill,  I'm afraid when it comes to 16 guage - I'd use the wire.
But:
When I was learning to paste all the Mack truck cabs back together I got
tired of all the panel distortion with a torch and tried some 1/16  6011
which I would drag across the panel edge to "stitch  the edge" I called it.
I then proceded to use the seam sealer and filler be it bondo or lead back
then.   I wonder if you could find some 1/16 rod in the 6013 might be your
best shot as the ability to run it DC straight polarity would not tend to
dig much.

After a while I ended up using a TIG torch(when I'd saved enough money to
buy one), welding about 3/4 of an inch and quenching the panel for some
really awesome results with little body work/filler needed over the joints.

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Woolley" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Stick welding question]

> Ralph,
>
> That's a good trick for a light whip.  We used to make our light whips
> from cable that the companies who used to come into the oil refineries
> to stress relieve our welds  would use for their gear.(if you could talk
> them out of it which you usually could if you didn't get greedy).  Can't
> say I ever appreciated those twist handles mostly because I would have
> to use half a rod  if I was in a bad position or I was running the
> machine way hot for one reason or another.  I have a 110 V Miller Mig
> for installation work but I much prefer stick or Tig welding any day.
>  It certainly has it's place and is totally indespensible for production
> work and low amp stuff but I'm just not a big fan.  If I could find a
> stick rod  that runs on low amps for welding  14-16 guage tubing etc.
> that has a nice smooth appearance like 7018 I'd be all over it.  Any
> suggestions?
>
> cheers,
> Bill Woolley
>
>
> Ralph Sproul wrote:
>
> >        Bill, Thanks for the reply.  I have seen this white powder on the
> >rods you mention and there are cases of them that I was going to put in
the
> >oven "some day".........now I think I'll put them in the scrap pile.
> >        I've been on jobs that required ovens for the 7018 in building
> >towers and large machinery set ups (sawmills, cement plants, and chip
> >plants).  Cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned.........as we often
welded
> >rain or shine to complete the jobs on time for the customer to get
working.
> >        I've always thougth 6010 was the DC version of an AC
6011.......hard
> >digging, fast freeze, good mild steel, and general repair rod.  The 6011
> >running thru some of the most crudy situations(oil, grease, paint, rust
etc)
> >and holding that I could not believe it at times.
> >        On the other hand the 7014 I've used for real nice flowing beads
and
> >is more of an "overlay bead" than a penetrator or for using in stringer
bead
> >applications(on AC).  The 6013 being the DC version of that build up rod
for
> >repairs or surface welding.  I'd use it on thin wall tubing with stick
> >welding to not blow thru like the 6010 would tend to do(in the past).
Now
> >I'd just use a mig for surface treatment for repairs or for surface
welding
> >of thinner parts to keep from blowing holes.    This isn't from looking
> >anything up, but more on what I remember when I did nothing but stick
> >welding.  Now I have three mig welders so using stick welding now just
seems
> >like working at 1/4 of the results which is what the customer is
interested
> >in.  Heavy winds being the definite case where I'll break out the
Electorde
> >stinger.  I actually enjoy stick welding on occassion to keep my hand at
it.
> >        While I'm on the topic of stick welding and we're talking tricks
of
> >the trade here, I have a stinger that I use that you may appreciate.  I
took
> >a TIG gun cable that has the gas and woven copper conductor in
it........it
> >is very light as far as a cable goes.......and that is just the trick.
Cut
> >the damaged or burnt out old TIG torch off and hook up a stick electrode
> >holder of your favorite configuration to it (I happen to like the twist
top
> >heads).  It makes a real light 10-15 foot whip (which is all you have to
> >hold up all day) and it will more than carry the 75-125 amps you usually
> >weld stick with outside.  Most of our root passes were 1/8 and that light
> >welding whip at the end of the day makes your hands ache less.  Hope you
> >find it helpful.
> >
> >Ralph
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Woolley" <[email protected]>
> >To: "Ralph Sproul" <[email protected]>; <[email protected]>
> >Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 6:06 PM
> >Subject: [Fwd: Re: [TheForge] Stick welding question]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>-------- Original Message --------
> >>Subject: Re: [TheForge] Stick welding question
> >>Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 17:56:27 -0400
> >>From: Woolley <[email protected]>
> >>To: [email protected]
> >>References: <003201c35cee$63877760$50aa62d1@oemcomputer>
> >><[email protected]> <001201c35da0$b1a16200$cccb2340@brhlbsmtnh>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Ralph,
> >> In my experience, 7018, 8018, 9018 et al  can be stored in a dry place
> >>without a problem.  When I was working as a boilermaker, I worked on
> >>Limerick II when it was being built( one of PECO's nukes in PA).  I had
> >>a pipe welding certification there.  You could not draw rod from the
> >>designated place where it was dispensed without it coming from an oven.
> >> You wouldn't  need to keep it in an oven before welding for most plate
> >>jobs but you would for pipe welding.  So keeping the rod at certain
> >>temperatures is only a must for certain applications.  The one thing I
> >>know for sure is it aids in striking the arc initially, which will help
> >>keep your starts free from porosity. As far as 6010 goes, if it gets wet
> >>the flux is ruined.  It will just come off the rod.  If you heat it in
> >>an oven the flux gets  a chalky  white deposit of some kind.  IMO, if it
> >>gets wet, it's done.  Low hydrogen rod can be dried in an oven to take
> >>moisture out or probably just used but if it gets soaked it's shot from
> >>what I've been told.  I've never been so hard up for rod to try to use
> >>rod that's been soaked.  I also don't own a rod oven.  I haven't used
> >>much AC/DC  or strictly AC rod since all I ever use my AC machine for
> >>was  Tig welding AL.  The little 6013 rod that I've used has had
> >>characteristics very similiar to 6010 from a welding standpoint so I
> >>would assume you would have to treat it the same way although I'm not
> >>sure.  Now I'm curious.
> >>
> >>Cheers,
> >>Bill Woolley
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
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