[TheForge] 36" diameter ring

Tue Aug 5 22:19:00 2003

        Bob,  Bending forks will work, or a piece of channel and a straight
(dull) peen hammer would work also.
            In either case - Timing marks laid out to bump or strike on,
work well for consistency.  As with many projects making a "study or sample"
of the 36" radius would be helpful.  Find how far to put your marks apart
and hit the stock evenly each time for good results........or bumped to the
same arc in a fork.  Having the radius drawn on the table to compare it to
helps to get the arc smooth and correct.   Pulling or hammering all in one
place to get the job done quickly never yields much success.  Control and
patience give the best results.  When the first go round doesn't give what
you want and you need to tighten it, go back and remark your stock and
tighten the radius that way. (works for me bending cold).  The trick to
keeping the stock from going into a helix on you when bending is to keep it
straight on the V block or channel, keep your "bending radius shoe" of
rugged enough construction as not to deflect during force being applied, and
doing the bends on a table that is heavy enough and large enough to keep the
leg straight during bending helps.  Using forks can remove a slight helix
also.  Heating and relaxing is a method you can use if helix is getting out
of control and not responding to hammers, forks, bars, bigger hammers, etc.
      Next less desirable method is to have a piece of plate around that is
over 36" in diameter for layout........then take all your angle iron cut
offs in the 1 1/2" to 3" long catagory and weld them along your layout
line(with leg in for support).  Now heat the iron, wrap to the jig and
you'll be right on the money.........this takes much longer than cold
bending, but it is an option.
        If all else fails, you can jack up your anvil............ or use the
step and work UP instead of down.

        For forge welding it, scarf one end, bend ring, make second scarf
when exact location is known, weld.
        I'm not sure on formula for figuring stock.......that's why I cut it
later........so I'm interested in that answer myself.  Page 76 of the
"Blacksmith's Manual Illustrated - by J.W.Lillico"  has an explanation of
the formula as well as a tool to aid welding of a hoop, and the channel or
"V" block & straight peen method I mentioned............but when I read that
formula I feel like I just took a crash course in the French language and go
back to my old method.  It also advises it is easier to deal with a smaller
hoop than a large hoop as far as having to jump it back to the correct size.
AND lastly - you'd need a pretty large cone to use the method suggested for
rounding the hoop in Figure 4.   :-)

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rackers" <[email protected]>
To: "TheForge" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 9:24 PM
Subject: [TheForge] 36" diameter ring


> I need to make a ring 36" in diameter from 2" x 1/4".
> Although I may call a friend to use his tire roller, I am curious about
hearing
> of other methods of making it.
> I can't bend it over the horn of the anvil, since the top of the horn is
only
> 31" above the floor.
>
> I'm sure someone will suggest bending forks, and I'd like to know how you
make
> sure you do it evenly and check your progress as you go along.
>
> Last question is the rule of thumb for final length of the stock in order
to
> forge-weld the ring together.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob
>
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