[TheForge] Swedge block question

Tue Apr 22 09:02:05 2003

The swedge should certainly be 1/2 the diameter or you couldn't rely on it to produce a full round when using a top swedge.  If your worried about hitting the block while forging one sided use a flatter to finish.  I would forge the section of your 3/4" bar down to a 3/8 x 3/4 flat on the anvil or power hammer first and then go to the swedge for for final shapping only.  Might even beval the edges to start the 1/2 round by hand.  I really think you could come very close with less effort by only i=using the swedge block as a finishing tool and not as a rough forging tool. Of course if you have a power hammer available a 1/2 round die might be a faster way to go.

John

> 
> I appreciate the alternative solution. However, it doesn't answer the
original
questions.
I have other considerations which made me decide to use 3/4" in the first
place.
I didn't go into them in order to keep the problem simple.
The exact half-round profile doesn't have to be exact, nor does the
length.
I'm trying to see just how far I can go from the original size and still
have
the strength I need for the job.
It's possible I may have to leave a certain length in the full round, and
if
so, I don't know how much.
I also have to have full 3/4" at the other end.

And even if I were to go that route, which was one consideration, it still
would leave my original questions unanswered.
Suppose you had to get it done today, had no other stock, and couldn't get 
any
other stock quickly enough.
Given that situation, what's the most efficient way to do it?
Alternative solutions are obviously more than welcome, but I'm still
wondering
if anyone has the answers to the questions.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]]On Behalf Of Phlip
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 12:46 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Swedge block question

Dunno, but it seems to me that you're doing things the hard way. If it
were
mine to do, I'd swage down some stock with a slightly over-sized cross
section into the shape I needed, get it into the planar alignment I wanted
with heat and a soft-faced heavy hammer, make my bends ( hard way bends
are
perfectly easy with a starting crease and a bright orange heat),
flatten/straighten my curve with the same heavy, soft-faced hammer, then
forge weld the 3/4 inch round back on, with a simple lap joint....bending
it
flat then, if needed.

But then, I believe in getting a job done in THIS lifetime....

Phlip

 If it walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, it is probably not a
cat.

Never a horse that cain't be rode,
And never a rider who cain't be throwed....

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