[TheForge] Re: Anvils

Wed Apr 2 09:06:03 2003

"Only put under the hammer those fingers you would be willing to lose."

Clay Spencer

dan tull
georgia
abba, afc, S.C. psba, obg,sofa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 2:52 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Anvils


> Chuck;
> Didn't know Clay Spencert existed when i built mine...plans? What are
> those? Materials lying around the yard determined a lot of the design.
> Yes, I did build in a rebound spring which works well.
> While i use sacrifice plates on the TH anvil sometimes, I find that they
> do absorb a lot of energy compared to welded solid faces. I do have  a
> pretty massive anvil on it now ( 7"X9"X  45" solid built up welded
> plates set on edge). but with the hammer weighing in at almost 100# I
> don't have a 10-1 ratio, i don't think.
> It was enough to do a fair job of breaking my index finger yesterday,
> however. I'd advise you to avoid that.
> Did a much better job of it last time...see
> http://www.peterfels.com/bsab.htm
> Oops...digression...anyway....the only way I can see to heat treat it is
> to flame harden it, which I don't know diddle about.
> No, you can't borrow my Schmirler!
> Thanks for your commentary.......Pete
>
> Chuck Robinson wrote:
>
> >Pete,
> >Did you make the TH faces removable like Clay Spencer shows in his Plans?
> >I would suggest that you do so ,
> >Spark test the Grader Blade then use a proper heat treatment for the
alloy.
> >With an unknown steel, test quench in slow to fast quenches until the
proper
> >hardness is achieved.
> >first air quench, next oil quench,next interrupted water quench, next
water
> >quench, finally GSQ quench.
> >The die movement in TH dies isn't too detrimental in blow force as long
as
> >you have at least a 10 to 1 ratio of anvil to hammer weight.
> >If you need to use the hammer for multiple blows, add rebound springs
like
> >Otto Schmirler shows on PP 99-100 in his book "WERK UND WERKZEUG DES
> >KUNDERSCHMIEDS"; and shame on you  folks if you don't own a copy of it.
> >
> >Ralph,
> >I've found that the vibrational harmonics (hammer rebound) of an anvil
are
> >far more dependent on the anvil mass and homogeneity of that mass  than
the
> >face hardness (as long as the face isn't dinged by the hammer blow).
After
> >testing a lot of anvils with the ball bearing drop test and Rockwell
files,
> >I wasn't able to conclude that the hardfaced anvils were routinely better
in
> >rebound.
> >Incidentally hammer ring didn't tend to correlate to liveliness either.
> >Some excellent cast steel anvils, like my Kohlswa, have excellent
rebound, a
> >relatively soft face  and minimal. hammer ring.
> >Laurel Machine and foundry also sells excellent cast anvils, but they
went
> >thru several casting foundries before they found one with enough
expertise
> >and quality control to insure consistent reliable quality in the
castings.
> >
> >Frosty,
> >My top alloy choices for a cast anvil are: 1 spent Uranium, 2 Titanium
and
> >3 tungsten. I'd like one of each.
> >Chuck
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer" <[email protected]>
> >To: <[email protected]>
> >Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 11:29 PM
> >Subject: Re: [TheForge] Chasing and engraving
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Phlip;
> >>Pure iron if you can get it, if not try for a low carbon or deep draw
> >>type steel.
> >>If you make your chasing tools from something like  S7, then you can use
> >>them for hot work too.
> >>A set of curved line( ends in various arcs) tools are good, make them
> >>both sharp ( for cutting) and blunt  for creasers.
> >>The cutting edges last longer if ground with convex curves ( the
> >>opposite of hollow ground.) Also radius the edges of  lining or cutting
> >>tools so you can rock them along a line and not leave jags.
> >>Rounds, elipsys(sp), diamods and squares...both radius edged and sharp
> >>edged.
> >>Keep your eye out for "found " chasing tools..like small rivet sets,
> >>nail sets. old time push rods and so on.
> >>Making the silly little things is kinda addictive..if you lean that way.
> >>George Dixon  has written about this subject well.
> >>Norm Larson has a pretty good new book on the subject ( forgot the title
> >>already, tisk).
> >>Use a soft hammer ..you will spend less time hunting for flying tools.
> >>
> >>Chuck;
> >>I used scraper blade for the anvil and hammer faces on my treadle
> >>hammer. The welding involved in making the faces solid enough to suit (
> >>lots) softened the scraper blade much more than I'd like.. except for a
> >>few areas that didn't get as hot. I hammer out the dings from time to
> >>time...similar to the areas adjacent to the welded repairs on my anvil.
> >>Work hardening  (I  started with a small air hammer) didn't achieve as
> >>much as I'd hoped.
> >>There are often times when I heat an area to work and leave the part
> >>that bears on the anvil, cold, so as to localize distortion. If it is
> >>tool steel, it is hard ( literally) on the anvil's soft spots.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> >
>
>
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